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C'mon now, really, why does the Honda have a 'better' power output than a 4AGE? The 20v has an output of @160hp at @7800rpm, 120lb torque @5600rpm. The V-TEC B16B-R has an output of 182hp @ 8200rpm and 118lb of torque @7500rpm. The 4AGE has a bore x stroke of 81mm x 77mm, the Honda is 81mm x 77.4.  Hmmm, so similar, yet so different. Been arguing this with my Honda buds for awhile now. Y'all now this one??

Lets play! Let's look at duration, lift and timimg. Say for example, uneven intake/exhaust duration, or maybe the same duration with different lift.

This explains a lot!

[POOR BABY]

POOR BABY

We should have a first aid kit. Mine is running a little low on supplies. after all, we will be doing repairs on the car. Anybody that doesn't bleed on the car ain't working on it. Idea came up tonight after I tried to lop off the end of my thumb whilst cutting potatoes. Luckily the grandkids have band aids leftover(Elmo). We should be sure to have Power Rangers themed band aids.

Fiat X/19 Bertone with a Hayabusa as an example. I like 4bangers, but go crazy. MGB with a 4 rotor rotory

I think I found my next car. 

Tents, campers, hotel rooms? One thing that needs to be addressed.
Food; any body have special dietary needs? Vegan? Allergies? Religious restrictions? Medical? Personally, I can live on fast foods. I have a small BBQ I can bring. Or we can do the Taco Bell thing, bean burritos last a couple of days in the glove box.

Better to lighten flywheel or engine internals? Light weight crank, rods, pistons, with standard weight flywheel. or just removing half the flywheel mass with standard weight internals?

Who do we have or know that can weld aluminum?

It's a monster of a car. We put together from multiple cars. Make it ugly. Stitches at the seams. Any off the wall ideas?

Clarify rule #4.7;  If I'm reading it right, what we can sell from the car can be used to prep the car. Buy a car for $500, sell parts for $800, build a $1300 car?
Rule #4.2.1; Windscreen I'm good with Lexan, but what is Willows spec on that?

Looking at a few things. I'm back to wanting to build with the early crank and rods. The early crank weighs 11.7 kilos (25.8 lbs), the early 11 kilos (24.25 lbs). That's 700 grams (1.55 lbs) not having to be spun. The early rods weigh in a whopping 459 grams (1 lb). The late model high comp rods weigh in at 526 grams(1.16 lb). 20 valve is 514 grams(1.13 lb). Just for comparison, the atlantic rods weigh in at 454 grams. The early rods are around 2.5 oz lighter, but combined are a whole 10 oz lighter. The pistons weights are close enough to not worry about. The weight savings are a little over 2 lbs on the recip assy. alone. the stock 200mm flywheel weigh 16 lbs. The flywheel I have sitting in storage weighs 9 lbs. Total savings of 11 lbs(engine and flywheel). that saves up like 15 lbs of torque during acceleration.
I would consider a compression ratio of up to 11-1. The fuel available at the track has a 100r octane rating. Motor octane rating is 96. We can get away with 10.5-1 on the street with the 91r crap we get on the street.
The cylinder head should be the small port. The t-vis is great for improving the torque below 5000 rpm but I'm sure we'll spend enough time above that not to worry. Besides, the small port has a decent low engine speed flow, we won't give up anything really. I have an oversized throttle body on the corolla now. Ask Mikey if it makes a difference, he should know.
Cams, I have WEBCAM grind #294, 246 duration 8.2 lift, or 264 dur 7.9, 8.1, 8.35 lifts, also stock cams.
The stock exhaust manifold is sufficient for a decent output, but I do have a set of headers available to us.
We just need to build a good exhaust system. NO CAT! NO SMOG EQUIPMENT!
I have several different injector flow rates available. This will be good for tuning. I would like to use the JDM MAP type ECU, I do have one available. Just need to get a couple of sensors and mod the harness. Mostly just a repin job.
Need to find an underdrive pully........CHEAP.