Messages

I have 2 junk doors, engine bonnet, and trunk lid. I just looked outside, I also have a side vent assy. .

Looking at the atmosphere pressuse points on the MR2. The highest pressure (ram) is on the front bumper just below the face. We could try ducting the ram effect air from there to a plenum in the engine bay. From there, distribute to engine intake, and rear brakes. The turn signal light holes can be intakes for the front brakes. The duct can be routed through the passenger side cockpit.

I have a set of KYB gr2 shocks at our disposal. I like the brace on the front. Excessively loud exhaust + earplugs = 0 problem. Save a little weight on the exhaust and use a single freeflowing muffler.

I would like to have the lock set, doors, trunk, T-tops, ignition. The wheels are open for sale, they are way gaudy. The bumper will probably be used. You won't want it after we lighten it.

Why was it so high?

Let's lose some weight, chop chop!

I'll show you too old you litt...... OW OW OW finger cramp

Allllrighty then, I like the ABS intake, let's do something similar.

Integrate a "safety" cage in the back with the rear wing. Frankendeuce the car.

Actually, I thought about cutting out the trunk. I just thought you guys would think I had lost it altogether. As for the doors,  on the passenger side, just cut down to the outer skin and tack it to the body. The driver door can be cut almost as much, but still needs to retan some mechanism the secure it in the closed position. Dont need door glass, but if we need to we can use plexiglass. Only the windscreen is required to use stock glass or lexan. As far as getting hit in the rear,  the rules say we can't put structure outside the original body lines.

Any thoughts on shortening the front??

How well do you think the wink type mirror will work in the MR2? Is the B pillar going to get in the way?

I have Mikes old MR2 exhaust.

Early Supra was 4x114, later was 5x100, Might be able to fit Supra brakes on genII 2's.

Lightening the 2
Start in the back, bumper, tail lights, PLATE, stock intake, cut out trunk firewall, remove bracing from decklid and trunk lid, trunk lid springs. Any non-structural metal can be lost. The engine compartment can lose the A/C compressor, and the battery tray, battery will bemoved to the front. Remove A/C and heater lines from the tunnel. We can use the oil for heating if need be. Gut the interior. Door seals and moldings can go. Cut all unecessary metal from the doors, could tack weld the passenger door skin in it's frame. Remove all unecessary elictrical wiring and accessories. From about he front firewall forward probably keep the geneeral weight. Just remove things not being used. Tack weld the light covers to the trunk lid. We can use the turn signal holes to get cooling air to the brakes. Any hole or gaps can be covered with tape. Any other ideas?

Ok, same brakes front and rear? Prop valve, definately. Another thing we can do is move weight to the front.