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Messages - Sirdeuce

Pages: 1 ... 73 74 [75] 76
1111
Engine / Re: My performance cam gear progress
« on: February 11, 2010, 08:04:40 PM »
Can you get the thin to advance, then retard, then advance? Or vice versa.

1112
Chit Chat / Re: Aussie driving instruction.
« on: February 11, 2010, 11:56:00 AM »
Sounds like a drive down the hill with my wife in the car.

1113
Engine / The engine......
« on: February 11, 2010, 11:13:36 AM »
Looking at a few things. I'm back to wanting to build with the early crank and rods. The early crank weighs 11.7 kilos (25.8 lbs), the early 11 kilos (24.25 lbs). That's 700 grams (1.55 lbs) not having to be spun. The early rods weigh in a whopping 459 grams (1 lb). The late model high comp rods weigh in at 526 grams(1.16 lb). 20 valve is 514 grams(1.13 lb). Just for comparison, the atlantic rods weigh in at 454 grams. The early rods are around 2.5 oz lighter, but combined are a whole 10 oz lighter. The pistons weights are close enough to not worry about. The weight savings are a little over 2 lbs on the recip assy. alone. the stock 200mm flywheel weigh 16 lbs. The flywheel I have sitting in storage weighs 9 lbs. Total savings of 11 lbs(engine and flywheel). that saves up like 15 lbs of torque during acceleration.
I would consider a compression ratio of up to 11-1. The fuel available at the track has a 100r octane rating. Motor octane rating is 96. We can get away with 10.5-1 on the street with the 91r crap we get on the street.
The cylinder head should be the small port. The t-vis is great for improving the torque below 5000 rpm but I'm sure we'll spend enough time above that not to worry. Besides, the small port has a decent low engine speed flow, we won't give up anything really. I have an oversized throttle body on the corolla now. Ask Mikey if it makes a difference, he should know.
Cams, I have WEBCAM grind #294, 246 duration 8.2 lift, or 264 dur 7.9, 8.1, 8.35 lifts, also stock cams.
The stock exhaust manifold is sufficient for a decent output, but I do have a set of headers available to us.
We just need to build a good exhaust system. NO CAT! NO SMOG EQUIPMENT!
I have several different injector flow rates available. This will be good for tuning. I would like to use the JDM MAP type ECU, I do have one available. Just need to get a couple of sensors and mod the harness. Mostly just a repin job.
Need to find an underdrive pully........CHEAP.

1114
Story Ideas / Re: Story for the FX16
« on: February 10, 2010, 09:18:43 AM »
Fuel is available at the track. 91, and 100 unleaded, and 110 leaded! 100 octane can easily support 11.5-1 compression! We don't have to run a cat, soooo, compression is open. We just need to take out a second on our houses to fuel the car. We can also tine more aggressively than we thought before. Microsquirt is lookin' better and better!

1115
Engine / Re: Stock valve springs & 8,000+ RPM
« on: February 07, 2010, 06:42:22 PM »
I thought I put it in my list of thing I was willing to donate to the cause, but I guess I forgot. So here is a piece I forgot to list;  Ahem..... TODA valve springs. Does that help with your latest concern??

1116
Story Ideas / Re: Story for the FX16
« on: February 07, 2010, 06:31:56 PM »
Hmmmm........... I just tripped over an MR2 fuel tank. I wonder if it will fit in the FX's tunnel!? Any limit on the fuel capacity of the car?? 25 gallons maybe?

1117
Also need to see what junkyard wheels will fit.

1118
Suspension / Re: Bill's Suspension Mods
« on: February 05, 2010, 10:24:32 PM »
Need to look at the steering knuckles on power and non power steering. Which never is shorter will give a better steering response. Also check out lock to lock on other racks that would fit. Go cart steering anyone?

1119
I think a 195 55 14 would do fine. The car is light, don't really need that much footprint. The biggest problem I come across with my tires is rolling to the sidewall in a turn. The stock 185 60 14 allowed too much understeer. The steering response was 'drunk' feeling. Steering input felt delayed. I ran 195 55 15 and the tires were really too much for the stock suspension. A 50 series tire on 14 will probably be the same. We'll have to see where we are with the suspension before we decide on a tire/wheel size and aspect ratio. A better balance in the tire/wheel/suspension is better than just slapping on some big meat.

1120
Chit Chat / Re: Hey Bill! What's wrong with this picture?
« on: February 05, 2010, 10:05:03 PM »
WOW!! An Austrailian MR2! Looks like the toilets aren't the only things backwards down under.

1121
Suspension / Re: Bill's Suspension Mods
« on: February 05, 2010, 09:59:01 PM »
I already have plans to modify the strut tubes as they are not the type with a nut to enable cartridge replacement. If we lower the car we'll want a shorter cartridge. Shorter stroke. Need to find dimensional listings on available shocks. Parent vehicle weight, performance level( a GTS has a better performance valving than an SR5, etc.).
Sway bars......
We could do the old school drifter trick of using 2 stock sway bars. Just need to devise a way to link then together. A hard plastic like Delrin with a steel strap maybe?
Bushings..............
We could get black urethane bushings, Bead blast the hell out of them to make them not look like urethane, blah blah.

1122
Brakes / Re: Brakes
« on: February 05, 2010, 09:45:53 PM »
Pick n pull field trip anyone?

1123
Engine / Re: Think the judges would notice this?
« on: February 05, 2010, 09:41:57 PM »
I'll give the $500 now! You won't even have to haul it to the track for the race perpetrator to buy it out from under you.

1124
Engine / Re: To TVIS or not?
« on: February 05, 2010, 09:38:46 PM »
Just use the small port head. Tell the judges you swapped the T-VIS head to the high comp JDM block you bought for your smogged MR2. Even swap, no monies exchanged. Might even be worth less than the T-VIS set up as there are less parts. Use a three rib block just to cement your story. A seven rib block won't be necessary at the power levels we have been looking at anyway.

1125
Let's do it!! / Re: MR2s
« on: February 04, 2010, 06:02:11 PM »
Takes $5.00 to make the 1 percenter club.

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