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Giving the dual pattern lobes a thought..... Might be a good way to do a ghetto "V-tec" type setup. Further isolate the runners in the T-vis head, enlarge the secondary runner and T-vis butterfly and grin the longer duration onto the T-vis side cam lobe. Could work. I've had the idea to install a divider past the T-vis into the intake port to reduce turbulence in the port past the T-vis. The ports are really poorly matched going from the 2 port manifold runner to an open chamber intake port. Probably be good for the other various T-vis  applications as well. Biggest problem would be the injector though. Having a single injector centered in the port would hinder the installation of a full length divider and hold a requirement for flow to both valves to fully employ the fuel injected. An option would be to plug the injector port in the head and install the injectors in the manifold runners, 8 injectors on T-vis manifold and a new ECU with the proper tuning. Or, run put the injector in the primary T-vis port and inject all the fuel into one runner and keep the other runner dry. The ports would have to be tuned for swirls characteristics that would mix the rich and dry charges in the cylinder. Coupled with a dual pattern cam? Wish I had a bucket of money to play with these ideas.

The Tri-flow cams are no news here. As for the 7.56 lift cam, I believe you already have them, the lower lift cams are from the small port 4AGE. Verify with a dial indicator.

And the hits just keep coming! Broke the E-brake center cable and blew out the right rear wheel bearing. Maybe I'll be able to get them repaired this weekend.

Banging your head against the wall burns 150 calories per hour.

An ant can lift 50 times it's weight, pull 30 times it's weight, and always falls on it's right side when intoxicated.

Now for some really useless information...........

Dome light was real dim, bad ground. I have a few sets of these flat 'festoon' assemblies, 36 5050 (5mmx5mm) LEDs, they come with a spring loaded connector that plugs into the stock light clips. I did a little solder work to get 2 of these assemblies into the dome lens. What a difference these things make! Went from barely any light to being able to see the grains of sand in the rug! So I decided to put LEDs in the cargo light next to the hatch. The assembly is much smaller than the dome light. I used some LEDs from a flex strip and soldered 9 of the 5050s together. HUGE difference! I think I'll go nuts and put these lights in the side markers, brakes and turn signals. Also, I picked up a set of these cob style daytime running light assemblies and mounted them on the bottom of the grill, above of the radiator. That'll piss people off! These things are blindingly bright! I think I'll mount a few in the back for the guy with his high beams on........

Interior light for the MR2. The dome light in my MR2 was weak. Barely produced enough light  to see the seats at night. Culprit was a bad ground. only 7 volts through the ground, but a full 12v from the positive wire to a chassis ground. Cut and soldered some strip lights together and fixed the ground problem best I could without tearing into my interior and now the light is bright enough to read with! Oh, I used blue leds this time. I but blue leds in the key/door ajar light as well. Next, oil dipstick light!

Been playing with these light strips for a bit now. I bought a bunch of 5 meter strips on ebay and I really like them. First, I use a 1 meter strip on a battery with a solar charger. Lights my living room as well as a 100w incandescent bulb. Pretty good for a semiconductor! On to the lighting in my cars.
I used 2 30 led 'festoon' sets in the dome light in my FX. The old light shed barely enough light to find a Mountain Dew on the floorboard. The LED lights
are bright! Bright enough to see the sand in the rug! So I used the strip lights, cut into sections 3 leds long and made my own 'festoon'. Installed into the cargo light next to the hatch in the FX. See how that goes tonight. The light that was there barely glowed anyway. The oil dipstick is usually hard to see in these cars, even in the daylight. Now I have led lighting to help me there. The FX is going to be a Christmas tree by the time I get done with it.

Over a year on jack stands. Finally on the road again! In  the process of upgrading the suspension I had several other pieces that just had to change. The BC struts, Whiteline sway bars and bushings were what was planned. Enter wear and tear on a 26 year old car and you get a bunch of hidden repairs peeking in saying, what about me? So the left front lower control arm rear pivot boss was rusted to the bushing sleeve, replaced it. Front hubs, bearings and seals replaced. Due to interference of the tire on the strut housing at max negative camber spacers were needed. Spacers need longer studs, so installed longer studs. Got new lug nuts as well, why not. And replace the RH axle due to a cracked boot. The FX uses the same axles as a Mk1 MR2, so spares are abundant here. Installed new motor mounts, the old ones were shot. Finally, road test! Or not. Brakes master cylinder developed a leak. New master cylinder and a good bleeding...... ROAD TEST! Or not, engine won't idle. Oh yeah. Somewhere in there I changed the cams to WEB cams grind #294. For some reason the things won't run with the stock sprockets, only 6" manifold vacuum. Install adjustable sprockets and play with the cam timing. So far, without putting the degree wheel on, I have the intake at zero and the exhaust 5* advance. 16" manifold vacuum and it'll actually idle. Road test?? YES! A trip down the hill! And back! No problem with the engine. But now I have to raise the car about 3/4" to keep the tires off the fender. I went an inch higher. Now the little car is an FX16 GTS/RS! The RS stands for roller skate. A bit of tuning and better tires will get this thing into the next fun level.  Whole lot of work for a kayak transport. Don't you think?

If you do break the cable I have 2 sets sitting here.

You got it! Or if there is a way to bend the mounting tab, possibly ding the center channel for a cable canal to prevent binding. Just need to reduce the stress on the cable sheath. I learned the hard way.

I got to get me one of these!!
                   
                                          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jICGl9jmulc
                                          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXjEt-P9b_0
                                          http://litmotors.com/

This is the ultimate nerd vehicle! Nerds are cool.

No, I'm talking about the other end, the shift handle. When you pull back for 2,4,6 gears the cable angle increases to a point where it stresses the cable sheath. Moving the shift cable end high on the shifter lever causes this little bit of stress.

Here's a Beetle I came across on Yahoo. http://www.ronpatrickstuff.com/. Any motivational information here? Add a second engine and be street legal! That'll piss off the caps for sure!