status

[Sirdeuce]

Started on the wiring. So far just stipping tape and cutting the old harnesses into usable pieces. You can see my assistant in the pic. Good help is so hard to find!

[Sirdeuce]

Well, left the car in the rain last night. Seeing the rain puddle Can't have that! So a few strategically place holes should do the trick. Water drained off in seconds. I'll be drilling a few more holes for drainage a little later, water is starting to accumulate on me, and drilling holes to drain it of is much to painful. I'm going inside.

[BigMike]

Our mascot was enjoying a dip in the pool :)

I should be coming up Wednesday after work, like 95% chance at this time.

I am going to do some work next weekend for the LeMons car also.

Bill, please rearrange these in order of importance:
Plasma cut the doors
Resurface the flywheel
Clean the TVIS plates
Help you do wiring
Help you install mock engine
Help you remove unneeded parts from the car
Transfer the suspension bushings from the white car to the red car
Help you build engine
Modify strut housings

[Sirdeuce]

Finish getting the parts out of the white car
Install fuel tank in red car, remove the rest of the unneeded parts on this step.
Mock engine
Strut mods
Bushings when the struts are done
T-ViS and flywheel go with engine build
Doors are the last priorty
The rest of it is just a continuation from the day before
Most of the stuff I can do myself, just taking parts from the white car i feel safer with another body around. I don't much trust the soil here.

[BigMike]

Ok, then I will try to get to your place a couple of times this week and help you out up there. I'll wait on the doors/flywheel/TVIS for now.

[Sirdeuce]

See ya when ya get here!

[Sirdeuce]

I need verification on this! I have an ECU, part#89661-12320. I've looked at the pins inside the computer, and none are the typical code for a T-ViS engine. The info I can find online is that this ECU retails for about $1100. I would very much like this ECU to be a non T-Vis unit. The pins suggest an AFM operation. AFM no T-Vis? Just what we need for the LeMons car!

[Sirdeuce]

Never mind about the T-ViS, found something else that I'm concerned about. How about pins OX1 and OX2? @ O2 sensors? I need to find the specs for this ECU.

[Sirdeuce]

Ok, getting a headache now! The 89661-12320 is AFM with T-ViS. I have another, 89661-12580. Definately a non T-ViS, but Having trouble identifying AFM or MAP. MAP usaully has a PIM tab on the board. This has the VC and VS associated with the AFM. The Harness it came with is definately a MAP type. Both have dual O2 sensors. The 1258S0 has a knock sensor (KNK). I have all the sensors for a MAP type setup excepty for the MAP sensor. Possibly need an ignitor for the same. 115 hp or 135 hp? Aw hell, back to the T-ViS AFM ECU. At least I can stop pulling my hair out. At least the AE92 tuning was a little smoother on the power, had a slightly better power curve than the earlier AGE's. Wish I could find the non T-ViS AFM version.

[Sirdeuce]

Decided the front defrost would be a good thing to keep. Found 3" bilge fan and duct, like what is used to cool vented disc brakes. Problem, adapt a 5"x 5 1/2" flat flange with a 4"x 2 1/2" hole ( pic #1) to a 3" duct. This is where I start having a bit of fun! I have moldable urethane! A little flat rubber strip, some tape and a little math, voila, a mold for the adapter tube! (pics 2-3, the inner sleeve is the only one I have pictured, sorry.)  I made the 3" tube and then molded it into the flat rubber plate, sorry, no pics on this. The flat plate didn't properly adhere to the tube, so I made the urethane mix into a putty consistancy and built up a fillet around the tube. See it in the finished product, no i'tain't perty. (pic 4). Will use silicone to glu it to the plastic duct, should look something like this. (pic 5 and 6) Mount fan to pull warm air from behind the radiator. That was fun, back to the wiring, sigh.............

[Sirdeuce]

I talked to Kevin's window guy today. Looks like around $150 for a new windshield. A bit more than I would like to put into it, but I prefer the glass for the windshield. Glass is heavier, but it resists scratches better, and glass doesn't craze or discolor. Glass can handle a wiper better too.  I think glass will be better in the long run, especially if we do more than 1 race. I removed the old glass and about 99 1/2% of the old goo that held it in place. Don't think the price will increase with any difficulties on the installers part.

[BigMike]

Regarding the ECU, what if we ran the MAP system with a gutted TVIS style intake manifold and include a gutted AFM since I'm sure the judges know the MR2 came with a AFM? Will my GZE Map sensor work?

Regarding the ducting, did you do this work for the defroster or for brake cooling? I'm confused

Regarding the windshield, I'M TELLING YA, LET'S GET A LIGHTWEIGHT PLEXI GLASS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Sirdeuce]

Windshield can't be plexiglass. If we go lightweight plastic it HAS to be polycaronate resin! Lexan! Rules won't allow plexiglass for a winshield. Can use plexiglass everywhere BUT the windshield. Either way on the plastics, if someone goes offroading in front of you and sprays dirt, using the wipers will scratch the hell out of the plastic. Drive into the sun with a scratched window can reduce visibility. Reduced visibility can slow a person down and even make driving in a pack sketchy. I do like the idea of a weight savings, but prefer seeing where I'm going. That's my argument for glass.
The duct is for the defogger. First race is in March, in the moist, cool hills of northern Cali. Good possibility of window fogging. Any thing spent on this can be argued for safety sake! Not going towards the cost of the car! I found fans and ducting on e-bay that can be used for the defog and the brakes. I'm broke as hell, but am looking at 1 fan with about 3' of ducting for 30 bucks total with shipping. Nice thing is the whole thing is easily removed. Don't have to run it if we don't need to! Here's a pic of the defogger installed in the car.

[Sirdeuce]

As far as running the MAP system with the GZE map sensor, not really sure. We could try though.
as far as that goes, how about the sensor from the 20V head I have?? I do have a vacuum pump and a DVOM! I guess I could check the resistance ramp. I just don't have the proper MAP sensor for the high comp ECU. Can you settle for the JDM AE86 setup? Now is the time to decide this little bit. Once the harness is taped up I don't want to take it apart again.

[Sirdeuce]

A little note on weight savings vs. horsepower gain equivalent.
1. Need to know hp rating. I'm going to say we are at 130 horse.
2. Vehicle weight initial and final. Initial is around 2360 lbs, hoping for a final of 2000 lbs.
3. weight differential, 360 lbs
4. Divide initial weight by hp. 2360/130=18.16 lb per hp
5. Divide final weight by hp.  2000/130=15.38 lb per hp
6. Find mean lb per hp. (18.16+15.38)/2=16.765 Mlb per hp
7. Weight differntial by Mlb per hp 360/16.765=21.47 equivalent hp gain.
So the model car with it's weight reduction is eqal to a non lightened car with 21.47 more ponies. 2360 lb car with 151 hp!
This is just playing with numbers, might possibly be WAY wrong. I've heard so many things about so many pounds removed is equal to 1 hp. I can't begin to believe that 8lbs is worth 1hp on every engine/vehicle combination. I mean a car weighing 3000 lbs with 130 hp won't have the same equivalent hp gain as my example car.  So I played around with this and hopefully it's right. I hope I got this thing to where it's understandable to whoevere reads it. If anyone knows the real formula or lb/hp values, if there is any, please post so I can get this right. I really do wish the 8 pounds removed is equal to 1 hp was true though. 360/8=45. 45 is definately better than 21.5.