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[BigMike]

balance the car at higher speed while allowing for a looser suspension setup to be run for low speed turns.

That is a very good point. To illustrate this, a 30 MPH autocross suspension setup won't work on an open track averaging 70 MPH.

I know I like to keep my rear stiff, even against what everyone recommends. I run my Illumas at 1 up front (super soft) and 4 in the rear (I used to run 5 in the rear but the car has become much heavier back there so I've found its better at 4). This works great for getting on freeway on ramps, but the risk of snap oversteer is far greater and would be horriable to encounter at speed.

[Sirdeuce]

As for the low pressure area behind the rear window, it was the visor put in place to reduce the votecies in that area. I know the rear wing is pretty much useless without the visor. Maybe fashion a vortex generator and install ahead of some of the problem areas. MR2 EVO! Hehe

[Sirdeuce]

Not much done today. Was just going to clean and paint the steering column, but the threads for the steering wheel nut were trashed. I decided to use the column that came out of the car originally. The bearings were a little rough so I disassembled it cleaned and repacked the bearings. Cleaned the column body, painted it black and reinstalled the assembly. Much smoother operation, and looks a lot nicer. Decided not to do the pedal brackets though, can't really see them anyway. A little here, a little there, getting done slowly but surely. Next week, I plan to install the brake and clutch master cylinders, divorce the engine from the trans and install the cams. Mike, can you get the doors gutted? Cut out everything, but leave the hinge bosses and the strikers.

[Sirdeuce]

I've always heard a stiff rear helps keep the weight on the front tires. And the best shocks for the front would allow a fast compression with a slow rebound to keep the weight on the front.

[BryanH]

The trouble with a big rear bar on these cars is it picks up the inside rear tire - no good with an open diff.  I did run less front rebound with my 87NA back in the day to keep understeer to a minimum.  That was on Koni Yellows that only adjust rebound.  Mike's Illuminas change both compression and rebound with the single adjuster.   Independent control over both adjustments (and separate hi- and low-speed damping curves) is more ideal but definitely overkill for a LeMons car.  Wonder how many penalty laps that would be...

Infineon's Turn 10 (last fast right hander before the final hairpin) is fast with almost no runoff area.  Disprespect that corner at your peril. :)

Signed,
Buzzkillington.

[Sirdeuce]

Pics of the cleaned and painted pieces.

[Sirdeuce]

Shade tree auto parts! Poured the passenger side motor hanger. Just to give an idea of what the rest might be like. The most important are the torque mounts. But if you strengthen the torque mounts the old hangers fail miserably. So it's a good idea to do the hangers too. I poured them wideer than the stock rubber inserts so the urethane won't slide out. My FX16's hangers actually ripped out of the shells and allow the engine to slam around. Hard shifts sound like someone's in the engine bay with a big hammer. I'll get the others done soon ang hang the engine.

[Sirdeuce]

After setting up for about 6 hours the urethane shows it's teeth! This stuff is hard, at least twice as hard as the stock rubber! Pretty sure the engine will be heard through the chassis. Defineatly doing this to my car!

[BigMike]

What do you think the total cost of the urethane needed for all 4 mounts will be?

[BigMike]

I went back up to Bills last night to help him throw the race engine on a stand. Here are some pics:

1. Check out how much has been removed from the column.

2. It is so simple and lightweight, WOW

3. Looks really great. Notice there is no heater. I agree that with full race suits on + adrenalin we will be warm enough. Bill is planning on ducting air to the windshield to prevent fogging.

4. Very open engine compartment. I say we don't need the fan, but it does provide some insurance in case we have to idle for a looooong time

5. Here is a side shot of the relocated spoiler.

6. We'll leave the brake light bucket holes open to vent air out of the engine compartment. Also, a straight exhaust with 1 muffler will be used (no Cat) so the factory air buffer whatever piece (between the camera and the muffler with all the 5 horizontal slots) will be removed to help reduce drag.

7. The engine really did clean up. WOWOW! You can also see the urethane engine mount Bill is speaking of.

8. Check out what Bill found: A lightened Stock flywheel!!! It's probably about 11 or 12 lbs, compared to the stock flywheel which is 16.4 lbs. I brought it down the hill so I can resurface it, I just need to weigh it to be sure. It should do just well and it's free :D Free lightweight flywheel that the judges won't know about!

[BigMike]

Hey guys,


I went back up to Bill's today and we got the throttle pedal assembly all finished up. All-in-all it was a lot of hard work but it works great :) Nice work Bill!

[BryanH]

Awesome sound system bro.

[Sirdeuce]

RCA= Real Cool Audio

[Sirdeuce]

I'm cleaning the garage. I dug this thing up thought it might be a good option for the intake. An enclosed air filter that can have a duct feeding it cold air from the outside or maybe even from a high pressure area on the car for ram air. Maybe mount it like a pseudo formula scoop? Look at the third pic for that one. And the tail is Pippin's, silly cat likes to sit and watch. When he can, he gets in the way as much as possible!

[Sirdeuce]

In comparison, the car had a K&N filter when we got it. The idea was to cut the filter housing down to jus a ring to hold the filter in place, or use the set-up as-is and duct cold air to it through the port in the pic. Either filte should work nicely though. Could cut a hole in the deck lid and mount the K&N set-up like Mikey's IC fan!?