BigMike's Forum

Projects & Trip Reports => Projects and Build-Ups => Topic started by: BryanH on August 16, 2010, 02:42:16 PM

Title: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 16, 2010, 02:42:16 PM
(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/72101462/original.jpg)

Okay, so it's a beautiful, straight car with 25k miles on a brand new Toyota engine, turbocharger, transmission (with LSD), axles, ABS conversion, etc!  But it's still a project, because the chassis has 160k and really minor crap takes me forever to fix.  In a way it's ironic that this well-maintained car has had so many little annoying issues while my beater NA has been abused much of its life and yet is almost completely trouble free.

First, a bit of history of the car's issues and triumphs in my ownership.  This was written a couple years ago.  Skip to the next post if you want to get to the current stuff!

--
(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/80113844/original.jpg)
Hi.  I have issues.

Although Iíve had this car for more than a year now, itís been mostly a garage queen.  I had plans for 2007 to be a development year for the Turbo, but it had other machinations.  Notably two sets of clunking front struts and a pierced fuel tank (who knows why it was drilled into and subsequently JB-Welded). 

Luckily, disaster was averted as the pilot light from the water heater (just a couple feet from the car) did not ignite the fuel vapors trapped in the garage as the puddle formed that night. The fuel tank was an easy (if expensive) fix, once I worked up the courage/stupidity to drive the car to the shop at work with a slowly dripping tank.  A local premium junkyard had a couple MR2s in stock and a used tank was quickly picked up.

Right away after buying the car I noticed if often got stuck in nanny boost mode (6psi), which is painfully slow.  Fears of endless diagnosing danced in my head.  Even though the plug wires were only 6 years old, 3SGTE experts recommended a full ignition tuneup.  I figured Iíd start with the easy stuff.

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/80113843/original.jpg)

With a new cap, rotor, and plugs as well, the problem was solved.  Apparently all the serious 3SGTE racers perform this appeasement offering to the gods of boost annually.  Yikes.

When I bought it something felt off in the suspension, too.  A bit wandery, and it darted under braking.  While inspecting it in anticipation of an autocross I discovered the front camber was actively changing over bumps.  With the help of a tech at work we narrowed it down to the strut inserts having play between the shaft and body.  Quite rare for Konis.  So, new Koni Sports were ordered and installed.  Those lasted about a thousand miles before they started doing the same thing.  Not wanting to deal with this a third time, I am now in the process of having another pair of front strut housings altered to fit Koni 8611s (double adjustable race dampers).  They should be done in the next few weeks.

That brings us into í08.   Iím finally on the way to making a winner out of this car.  I recently picked up a used Addco front sway bar as the existing Suspension Techniques bar, with its heavily milled center section, has provided insufficient front roll stiffness heretofore.  The Addco bar, combined with the additional adjustments in the new struts should eliminate the sloppy handling and make it more stable like the teal MR2 (which uses a full-strength ST bar).

Iíve also just recently put together a new catback exhaust. The old one had a big leak at the flange downstream of the last cat, and looked awful to boot (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/71713599/original).  Summit delivered a 2.5Ē mandrel bend and a Gibson tip (yeah, I want it to be pretty, too ;)).  A local mom-n-pop (well, just pop really) welded a flange to one end and a mounting tab on the other.  Grand total parts and labor about $100.  Half of that was the tip. :o

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/92507566/medium.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/92507566/original) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/92507563/medium.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/92507563/original) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/92507517/medium.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/92507517/original)
[Click for larger.] 

The missing side trim piece below the bumper will be remedied soon, too. 

Itís a slip-on tip so I can adjust its length to some degree, and the height of the exhaust as well due to the mounting solution used.  As of now it needs to be lowered and lengthened a bit (just enough to stop it from spitting soot-water on the bumper).

Itís kinda loud. :D  Even with a turbo and two cats acting as mufflers.  During this dyno run (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDOLIv5c8_8) it set off a car alarm.  A first for meÖ such a hooligan Iíve becomeÖ

Of course after fitting the new exhaust Iíve removed the trailer hitch to save weight.  However Iíll be keeping it since none are produced anymore and I may need a small trailer in the future.

So how did it do on the dyno?

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/92507567/original.jpg)

These Dynapack dynos supposedly read low, certainly compared to the standard DynoJet.  My car compared well with other stock(ish) 3SGTEs on hand at the MR2 Dyno Day in San Jose (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/mr2dynoday&page=all).  The engine is rated by Toyota at 200hp and 200ft-lbs.  Rough guess Iím making 195hp at the flywheel and 210 ft-lbs.

And now the lightsÖ what trouble Iíve had with the lights!  Early on I lost a headlight and a turn signal bulb.  Clear bulbs behind clear lenses are goofy anyway Ė amber bulbs promptly went in their place.  Later on one of the headlight retractors went postal and would slam the light up and down 3-10 times whenever Iíd turn the lights off.  Very entertaining, but not so good for the motor or linkage methinks.  I cleaned the plug that goes into the headlight retractor relay, and no more winking MR2.  Weíre not done with the lights yetÖ recently a rock ate one of the foglights for breakfast.  I bent over for a new Toyota light assembly but am stuck at removing the old fog light.  Whoever invented the Philips screw should be beaten.  One is stripped and rusted in place (strange for a CA car).  Itís recessed so far back in such a tight space, an extractor wonít fit.  This oneís a puzzler.  Once I get it out, two products are on the agenda.  One (http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_30&products_id=134).  Two (http://rockblocker.com/store/36278.htm).

Thatís all.  Only a few imperfections. :lol:  Who wouldíve thunk a pristine-looking car with so many brand new parts (engine, tranny, turbo, etc) could be so much trouble!  I hope itís worth it.

Future plans, after the suspension proves its mettle, are an acceptable stereo system and possible replacement of the front end body parts (dependant on funds and finding out if the EPA still allows paint of this quality to be shot in CA).

Oh yeah, and I should probably do something about the ABS unitís fluid leak.

--
Later on in 2008...
--
 Last week was spent prepping the car for the El Toro ProSolo.  Installed that Addco front sway bar. Upside down at first. I rock. :)  During this time I discovered a slightly loose endlink, which must have been what was clunking all this time.  In order to be completely legal for Stock class I had to install that bumper trim piece, as well as the center console storage bin between the seats (which gets in the way of my camera mount). 

With the new sway bar, I thought I'd try a different rear alignment.  Ended up with:

--Front--
Camber: -3.1 / -2.9
Caster: -2.7 / -2.7 (not adjustable)
Toe: -1/16" / -1/16"

--Rear--
Camber: -1.4 / -1.6
Toe: 0 / 0

The gearbox also received four new quarts of Redline MT90 since it needed some smoothing out. 

It performed OK, but not great, and now I have a reference point to improve upon. Soon as I can afford to I'm going to order a set of fat new Hoosier A6 tires (225/275) and see if I can stuff them on the car.  If that works, I will surely pick up cornering speed, and a bit of acceleration too due to the short diameter of the 275s.  Remains to be seen whether squeezing a 275/35/15 onto a 15x7" wheel will actually be any better than a 225/45/15. Depends on how much the contact patch gets deformed.

During the event a vacuum hose popped off some vacuum diaphragm (idle control it appears), it doesn't fit very tight so I'll have to work with that. PCV hose also needs to be replaced since it let a bit of muck on the valve cover.

I've just realized I don't think I've ever inspected the air filter on this car...

--
A month later...
--

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96413451/original.jpg)
Hi again. I'm fast now.

As noted in The Paddock, Tubby Turbo just chalked up its first national-level win in my ownership.  :)  Progress has been slow but I'm now starting to see the car improve. It's taken a big step since El Toro last month.  [I wish I had it working this well at that event... I would have killed. :D]

The double adjustable Konis made it on the car after an 8 hour struggle (I so suck at mechanic work). 

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96413444/medium.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96413444/original) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96413443/medium.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96413443/original)

On the softest settings they're a bit firmer and harsher over most bumps, but still very livable, and I think it's actually smoother on the nicer freeways.  However, the big bad clunk is still there. :x  So it's not the struts, and it isn't the endlinks.  *scratches head*

Along with the new front struts I had the front 225/45/15 Hoosiers mounted on 15x6 wheels and 275/35/15s put on 15x7s.  Goofy looking, yet somehow cool. :) 

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96413449/medium.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96413449/original)

There was plenty of space inside the fenders for the 275s.  In fact I am going to look for a higher offset rear wheel (I can run + or - 6.35mm offset compared to the stock wheel in my class) to tuck the rear tires in a bit more.  Right now I've essentially made my car an inch and a half wider at the rear, which isn't good for snaking between cones. 

The front tires are a bit of a squeeze under the nose.  There's very little room.  I had to take out 0.8 degrees negative camber on each side to keep the 225s from rubbing the strut body.  And if I have too little camber, as is happening now with my slipping camber bolts, the outside of the tire can hit the fender lip. 

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96413450/medium.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96413450/original) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96413446/medium.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96413446/original)

With these fairly major changes in setup, I was hoping to get a bit of seat time at a local event before the SFR Divisional last weekend.  However, I forgot to pack my front wheel spacers and couldn't run.  So going into the big Divisional event I had no clue how my car would behave.  I took the advice of my strut guy (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/94403427/original) for a starting point on the double adjustables, made a wild guess on tire pressures, and went for it.  On cold tires right away the car was handling better than it ever had. :up:  Finally, it could transition with poise, and didn't threaten to swap ends under trail-braking.  Grip was excellent.

The MR2's performance and new tire setup seem to be making some waves in the autox community.  I believe I am the first to try putting the 275s in the back on a stock-class MR2.  For once I got off my butt and actually accomplished something nobody thought could be done. :)

The 275s launch extremely well, too.  I'm really looking forward to the next ProSolo.  Might I see my first sub-2-second 60ft time?  Fingers crossed.

Somehow the bigger tires still fit fine inside the car. :)

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96413453/medium.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96413453/original)


Some great action shots by Russ:

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96327744/medium.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96327744/original) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96327746/medium.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96327746/original) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96327734/medium.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96327734/original)

Notice in the first picture how the 275s seem to flatten out when under load, with the sidewall straight down instead of bulging out. 

First priority now is to fix the slipping front camber.  The old bolts are stuck in there (somehow) and need to come out to make way for fresh bolts.  That should fix the problem, as my NA MR2 uses the same camber setup and hasn't had any issues.

I still need an okay stereo in this thing.  Done right it'll net a few lbs in weight savings too (there's an amp under the seat I don't need).

--
A few months later...
--

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/100642633/medium.jpg) (http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/100642633/original)
Oops. I did it again.

Time for an update.  Last weekend the MR2 Turbo won Round 3 of the California Divisional Autocross Series with its continuing development showing steady progress.

I pretty much didn't touch the car since the first round of the series back in April.  Hot weather doesn't make me want to spend any time in the garage.  Leading up to Round 3, however, some things needed to be done.  In an effort to eliminate the front suspension clunks I decided to replace both upper strut mounts. Turns out both of them were in sad shape, so this was a good idea.  It still didn't fix my clunking though.  My latest theory is the undersized front sway bar bushings are allowing the bar to impact the chassis over slight bumps, causing the clunk that I can feel through the wheel and pedals.  Not sure where I could have custom bushings made though. 

This was a good opportunity to replace the old camber bolts with new ones.  When it all went back together I was able to get -2.5 to -2.7 degrees negative camber which is pretty good.  Until it slipped.  First run on the new bolts and the passenger side camber slipped.  It was almost funny holding the steering wheel sideways going down the straights. :) 

The next morning at the event a real mechanic offered to help sort it out and we spent some time discovering the source of the problem. It wasn't the bolts backing out or loosening up, it was the knuckle slipping between the strut brackets.  The knuckle had some rust on it, we cleaned that off and put little indentations into the inside faces of the strut housing brackets to give the knuckle something to grab onto (in Stock class you can modify the strut but not the knuckle).  Lo and behold, the camber held throughout the rest of the day and I came from behind to snatch the class win from 2005-2007 BS National Champion Jason Isley. :cool:

At this point I'm entertaining the idea of buying a trailer for the car. After my experience last year wearing out the wheel bearings on my NA MR2 driving it all over the western states I don't want to repeat that on the Turbo MR2 before Nationals. I think it's got a good shot at the championship in BS, especially if it rains.  I have a side yard large enough to store a trailer, so no extra cost there, and my parents have a truck I can use. 

Tire wear on the 225/275 combo is pretty even so far.  But rapid.  I think it's more a function of the weight of the car than anything else.

--
Mid-2009:
--

Even though I rarely drive it, I still like this car a lot. The feel and travel of all three pedals is perfect. Spoils me for other cars, it does. I've also become addicted to turbo noises over my shoulder.

About the only thing I've done with the car lately is some work on the front air dam. You might notice from the photos in this thread it's sagging a bit and has a bit of a V shape. It's supposed to be straight. There are two metal supports that run lengthwise behind the air dam -- one above the attachment point and one in the middle. Took them out, they were bent up pretty good. I straightened them (they're quite flexible) and went to work putting them back in. Which was a giant pain in the rear. The bottom of the bumper cover and the air dam had the saggy shape in their structural memory, making it difficult to force them straight to get the metal supports back in without re-bending those supports...

Anyway it's better now, but still a bit droopy.

http://www.ikonique.com/Pro_eltoro/slides/IMG_1338.html

In other news, I really need to find a better gear oil for this transmission. Redline MT90 isn't working so well for it. I've used that in my other MR2s with great results. Either my Turbo's transaxle is screwed up, or it needs a different viscosity.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 16, 2010, 02:48:37 PM
Anyhoo.  Current stuff.

To make a long story longer, the alternator died during a weekend in Oregon in 2009.  Not wanting to spend a few days there waiting for the right part to come in and having nowhere to work on it, I found an alternator from a Camry that looked close enough.  It barely fit, the pulley was wrong, it was 10 amps short of what I needed, and the plug was different, requiring a wiring harness adapter to be made on-site.  Fortunately I was with a group of MR2 enthusiasts that weekend so the more mechanically minded guys there helped me out big time getting the alternator in the car.  Drove it all the way home with the ABS light on, no speedometer, and no IC fan.  Seemed like a random group of things to stop working.

Got it home, parked it in the garage, and it hasn't moved since.  The battery was fried (don't know how it made it all the way home just fine and then refused to start the next morning, or even take a charge).  Over time one of the rear tires went flat and now won't hold any air. 

Anyway I finally got a real Toyota alternator to put in.  So it's time to get this car back on the road. 

Bought a new battery. This small car takes a pretty big battery. But Toyota put it in the perfect spot to add weight. Too bad I couldn't get a deep cycle Optima battery or something (stock class rules) because there's a slow drain with this car.

Earthquake woke me up early this morning (surprised no news on it today). Went out to the garage to work on the car before it got too hot.

Took the completely flat street tire off the car and looked for a race tire with some air pressure still in it. Still don't have a tire pump that works. Found a Hoosier with 20psi which will work for rolling the car around. Will have to make a trip to a gas station with a bunch of tires in the car.

Also this one Hoosier has developed little cracks along the outer shoulder while in storage. It wasn't that way when I took it off the car last year. Wonder if the rubber will crumble or tear off if I race on it again.

So, some questions now.  I plan to try to start the car tomorrow.  Here's my current plan of attack.

1. Pour a bit of oil in the valve cover to get some lubrication at the top of the engine.
2. Remove EFI fuse.
3. Disconnect ignition somehow (what's the best way? will it arc if I pull the wire off the coil/ignitor?)
4. Crank it over for 5-10 seconds to build some oil pressure.
5. Return fuel and ignition to operating status
6. Start, run for a few minutes to warm up (with fingers crossed!)
7. Change oil and filter
8. Profit???

Anything I should do differently?


I plan to get the car started so I can drive it out of the garage to wash it thoroughly, then put it back in the garage to work on it while it's clean.  Don't want to scratch the paint leaning over the car while it's got a year's worth of dust on it.

Never done an alternator before.  Is there anything more to it other than disconnecting the battery, bolting up the new alternator, and tensioning the belt?  I don't have a way to measure that tension so I'll try finger-testing the current state of it and duplicating that with the new alternator.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 16, 2010, 02:54:52 PM
The other issue I will need to deal with once it runs again is the exhaust.  The tab welded to the end of the exhaust broke off, and took a chunk of the pipe with it so there's a big hole there.  Will have to replace that pipe.  Also somehow the studs that hold the pre-cat to the downpipe have a shoulder that's too long, preventing the two pipes from joining together to form a seal.  At least that's what I've been told.  Not sure how this happened as it's all Toyota parts in there, or how to fix it.  If the nuts are capped and can't be screwed down all the way then maybe the solution is some washers, or open ended nuts.  I should know more tomorrow. I'm pretty sure removing the downpipe is required to access the alternator.

The car has always felt like it spooled up really slow and was sluggish off-boost.  I wonder if this is why.  It's hard to know for sure since I seem to be the only person left in the western states with a truly stock 3SGTE and don't have any other cars to compare with.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BigMike on August 17, 2010, 10:52:37 PM
and a pierced fuel tank (who knows why it was drilled into and subsequently JB-Welded).
NICE geeez what people will do to mask a problem

Luckily, disaster was averted as the pilot light from the water heater (just a couple feet from the car) did not ignite the fuel vapors trapped in the garage as the puddle formed that night.
I had a similar experience in the garage of our old house. I can't remember if it was from a car or from the lawn mower, but when I got home on a hot summer day and opened the door, I got a huge wiff of gasoline fumes -- and our water heater pilot stays on all the time. I went from calm & relaxed to panic mode in 7.3 milliseconds.

The fuel tank was an easy (if expensive) fix
Expensive? You know you have friends who could have helped ya out ;)

if often got stuck in nanny boost mode (6psi), which is painfully slow.  Fears of endless diagnosing danced in my head.  Even though the plug wires were only 6 years old, 3SGTE experts recommended a full ignition tuneup.  I figured I’d start with the easy stuff.
So this is an actual limp mode of the ECU then? Is the waste gate variable or does it have a secondary emergency waste gate for this reason? The waste gate is vacuum controlled, right?

When I bought it something felt off in the suspension, too.  A bit wandery, and it darted under braking.
This is because no MK2 handles like the dream MK1!

I recently picked up a used Addco front sway bar as the existing Suspension Techniques bar, with its heavily milled center section, has provided insufficient front roll stiffness heretofore.  The Addco bar, combined with the additional adjustments in the new struts should eliminate the sloppy handling and make it more stable like the teal MR2 (which uses a full-strength ST bar).
Did you ever consider swapping bars with the NA car?

Summit delivered a 2.5” mandrel bend and a Gibson tip (yeah, I want it to be pretty, too ;))
Could you post the Summit catalog link to the tip please :)

The missing side trim piece below the bumper will be remedied soon, too.
::)

So how did it do on the dyno?
(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/92507567/original.jpg)
Those areas where you lost & regained power is due to ignition trouble. Please explain the different colored lines. Is the engine for the most part 100% stock still?

And now the lights… what trouble I’ve had with the lights!  Early on I lost a headlight and a turn signal bulb.  Clear bulbs behind clear lenses are goofy anyway – amber bulbs promptly went in their place.
At this point I would have just said the hell with it and sold the car

Later on one of the headlight retractors went postal and would slam the light up and down 3-10 times whenever I’d turn the lights off.
HEADLIGHT WENT POSTAL!!!! LOL :lol:

Whoever invented the Philips screw should be beaten.
HAHAHH man you are bringing out the funnah!!

In order to be completely legal for Stock class I had to install ... the center console storage bin between the seats
GOOD GREIF!

I'm going to order a set of fat new Hoosier A6 tires (225/275) and see if I can stuff them on the car....
(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/96327744/medium.jpg)
Man that is a great tire combo you've got. It looks really great in that action shot

I've just realized I don't think I've ever inspected the air filter on this car...
Have you done this yet?

Last weekend the MR2 Turbo won Round 3 of the California Divisional Autocross Series with its continuing development showing steady progress.
That's awesome man! Who was driving? :P

Lo and behold, the camber held throughout the rest of the day and I came from behind to snatch the class win from 2005-2007 BS National Champion Jason Isley. :cool:
Congrats!! :D That is awesome!

I've also become addicted to turbo noises over my shoulder.
Admit it, nothing beats the sound of a whining SUPERCHARGER!!!!!

About the only thing I've done with the car lately is some work on the front air dam. You might notice from the photos in this thread it's sagging a bit and has a bit of a V shape. It's supposed to be straight....Anyway it's better now, but still a bit droopy.
Honestly just sell the car to me so you won't have to worry about it anymore!

In other news, I really need to find a better gear oil for this transmission. Redline MT90 isn't working so well for it. I've used that in my other MR2s with great results. Either my Turbo's transaxle is screwed up, or it needs a different viscosity.
Hmmmmm interesting. What is the status with this?
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BigMike on August 17, 2010, 10:56:57 PM
I think it's more a function of the weight of the car than anything else.
What does the car weigh?
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BigMike on August 17, 2010, 11:20:41 PM
Drove it all the way home with the ABS light on, no speedometer, and no IC fan.  Seemed like a random group of things to stop working.
Does the IC fan push or pull through it?

Toyota put it in the perfect spot to add weight.
I know I saw it when I was over there, but I forgot. Is it in the front trunk area?

there's a slow drain with this car.
It's not hard to trouble shoot which circuit is causing the drain, and once isolated, you can trouble shoot individual components until the drain disappears (using a multimeter).

Earthquake woke me up early this morning (surprised no news on it today).
You must have been taking crazy pills

1. Pour a bit of oil in the valve cover to get some lubrication at the top of the engine.
2. Remove EFI fuse.
3. Disconnect ignition somehow (what's the best way? will it arc if I pull the wire off the coil/ignitor?)
4. Crank it over for 5-10 seconds to build some oil pressure.
5. Return fuel and ignition to operating status
6. Start, run for a few minutes to warm up (with fingers crossed!)
7. Change oil and filter
8. Profit???[/b]
Step 2 takes care of both the ignition and the fuel. You're plan looks pretty solid to me. How long has it been since it was last moved more than a couple miles? Did you put any fuel preservative in the tank?

I plan to get the car started so I can drive it out of the garage to wash it thoroughly
Definitely the highest priority LOL Once Bryan always Bryan :D Bill and I have a lot to learn from you and your clean cars man! Props for that! :)

Never done an alternator before.  Is there anything more to it other than disconnecting the battery, bolting up the new alternator, and tensioning the belt?  I don't have a way to measure that tension so I'll try finger-testing the current state of it and duplicating that with the new alternator.
You've got it. Disconnect the negative terminal, R&R the alt., tension the belt until you can't twist the belt by your fingers more than a 1/4 twist. Check the tension in the longest section of belt (the greatest distance between pulleys). It may take a couple of experiences to get this right on the first shot, so what I'd recommend you try it tension the belt until it "feels good", and then fire it up. If the belt doesn't slip when you turn your head lights on, then it's good. You may find in rainy weather it may slip a bit, also the belt will initially stretch just a tad, so plan on double checking the belt tension after driving the car for a couple of days. Is the tension controlled by an adjustable pulley or by rotating the alternator? The later is harder to perform minute adjustments.

BigMike
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BigMike on August 17, 2010, 11:29:12 PM
somehow the studs that hold the pre-cat to the downpipe have a shoulder that's too long, preventing the two pipes from joining together to form a seal.  At least that's what I've been told.  Not sure how this happened as it's all Toyota parts in there
So is there an exhaust leak? Are you continually replacing exhaust o-ring gaskets?

the solution is some washers
If the shoulders are too long, then that is what I would do.

I'm pretty sure removing the downpipe is required to access the alternator.
Did you have to do that in Oregon?

The car has always felt like it spooled up really slow and was sluggish off-boost.  I wonder if this is why.  It's hard to know for sure since I seem to be the only person left in the western states with a truly stock 3SGTE and don't have any other cars to compare with.
"Truely stock" <--- You have answered one of my previous questions above.

There has to be a lot of stock dyno graphs you can compare yours to, right? Your graph shows boost coming in at about 3,200 RPM. Do you have a boost gauge installed? Remember it could be caused by a whole slew of conditions: temperature of the engine, moisture in the air, quality of your fuel, back pressure in your exhaust, plugged cat, cracked turbo, cracked turbo manifold, low engine compression, burnt or sticking exhaust valves, misfire and other ignition issues, etcetera. This is the CT26 Turbo, yes? Is it a ball bearing Turbo? Twin Entry?

BigMike
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 18, 2010, 12:38:02 AM
Haha Mike you're funny (lookin'!). ;)

Gotta go to bed now, no time for a proper response.  I dunno how the alternator is tensioned.  I dunno how to use a multimeter thingymabob.  I dunno lots of things. :p

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How long has it been since it was last moved more than a couple miles? Did you put any fuel preservative in the tank?

The car hasn't moved an inch since May 2009.  I didn't put any fuel stabilizer in because I didn't think the car would sit for this long.  It has 1/3rd of a tank of fuel currently.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BigMike on August 18, 2010, 08:08:39 AM
I'd advise draining that and adding some fresh fuel before you try to start it. Or you could add a lot of fresh fuel but it will run crappy for that entire tank full.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: Sirdeuce on August 18, 2010, 10:06:31 AM
If the car has been in the garage, and the fuel evap is properly sealed, the problems of sitting for an extended period are really quite diminised from earlier times. The more volatile components don't have as much of a chance to bleed off to the atmosphere. Additives are mixed in to reduce the evaporation of the lighter solvents in the fuel. A year in the garage is nowhere as bad as a year in the sun. I've run my cars on gas that has sat for three years withb no problems, garaged and sealed, gas didn't even smell old.  There will be some deposits in the system from sitting, but throw in a bottle of GOOD fuel injection cleaner and fill with good gas. Shell and Chevron have a decent 'detergent' in their fuel mixes. I like the "Techron' for a cleaner. If you are still a little paranoid about sitting soo long thow in a bottle of Berrymans B12 chemtool. The Berrymans is mostly alcohol, methanol I believe, and will help pass the accumulated water and give more volitile compounds to aid in the combustion process. You can use the chemtool with the 'Techron', the mix won't do any harm. Total volumn between the two is a little over a pint, maybe a pint and a half. Not much in a full tank of gas. Final note, dump a pint of alcohol in the tank at least once a year to help with the removal of condesation removal. Mid winter would be a good time to do this as most fuels have ethanol added in the warmer months
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: Sirdeuce on August 18, 2010, 11:07:02 AM
For the transaxle, you might consider a turbine oil additive. I don't recall what I used, but it was an HP(high pressue) additive. Don't need much, maybe 8 to 10 ounces in an E series trans. I used this stuff in my Celica's transmission and differential. used a pint between the two. Won't affect the viscosity of you oil, but it does reduce friction and heat. Only failures I ever saw were due to my abusing the hell out of the machinery. Broke a gear selector shaft, and destroyed a diff(dumped the clutch at 7,000 rpm). I've also heard of folks using a molybdenum additive, just haven't tried myself.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 18, 2010, 12:51:37 PM
It's aliiiive! 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8WYGVnKehY
Video of the startup (after initial procedure mentioned above) and a bit of idling.  Took a bit of time to sputter to life but then it seemed to run ok from my very untrained ear.  No big bad noises at least.  The ticking I hear is probably the injectors if I'm not mistaken - always loud on Toyotas.

Drove it down the driveway onto the lawn for washing.  Hey, no brakes!  Awesome!  The brakes on this car are my favorite ever - super firm pedal, really direct feel.  I really want that back.  Looks like I neglected to keep tabs on the fluid level and the slow ABS unit leak got away from me.

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/127589469/original.jpg)

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/127589473/original.jpg)
Brake fluid can matches my car.  :D

Anyone have time/knowledge/equipment to help me bleed the brakes this week?  I'm trying to get the car ready for an autocross on Sunday.  I have a little bit of the right brake fluid, not a ton, so unless you can mix ATE SuperBlue with regular BG DOT3 fluid maybe I can't... unless there's a local source for ATE stuff.  I've always ordered it from the internets.

I took a look at my malfunctioning headlight retractor relay.  Hmm, is this a sign of bad stuffs happening inside, or is the plastic decayed/cracked due to age?  I think it might be the former - the relay in my NA still looks like new.

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/127589478/original.jpg)
(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/127589480/original.jpg)

As for replacing the alternator, is it sufficient to disconnect only the negative battery terminal or do I have to disconnect both?  The positive terminal is kindof a pain.  Further, if I disconnect only the negative terminal would that suffice to save the battery from whatever is slowly draining it while parked?  I went ahead and did that for now.

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/127589481/original.jpg)
(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/127589484/original.jpg)
(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/127589487/original.jpg)

After cleaning up the car, the power steering went out while driving it back into the garage.  Ruh-roh.  This didn't happen during the drive down from Oregon on this wrong alternator.  Well I guess I wouldn't have been able to tell until I got to a stop, but I think I would have remembered that.  Hopefully it'll work with the right alternator.  Going to attempt it tomorrow morning.  Got too hot today again. 

Mike, you got it, the battery is in the frunk behind the spare.  Perfect spot for it. 

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/127589476/original.jpg)
Yeah it's a cheap battery.  Cheaper ones are lighter. ;)

Lunch time.  More later!
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 18, 2010, 06:23:15 PM
How much brake fluid does it take to thoroughly bleed an MR2 with ABS?  I have at least a quarter of a liter of ATE Super Blue.  No idea if that's enough.  I can't even find the info in the BGB.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: Sirdeuce on August 18, 2010, 07:57:07 PM
Cheaper batteries are lighter.............  on the wallet! I have a retractor relay #85964-20012. Same shape, connector, pins, might work for you. Interested? I'll give it to Mike Tomorrow. Should be the same internally.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 18, 2010, 11:08:46 PM
I don't know, if the part # is different it has to be for a reason... I'll have to check the p/n on my NA car, because I know that relay works in the Turbo.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: Sirdeuce on August 18, 2010, 11:17:31 PM
the systems use the same parts. I know the actuators are the same in the Corollas, MR2s, Supras. Could give it a try! What's the worst thing that could happen? Burn the car to the ground? Most likely blow a fuse. My money is on the thing working. Probably the only difference is in the way it mounts to the car. I'll have it in town with me tomorrow either way.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 18, 2010, 11:58:43 PM
So this is an actual limp mode of the ECU then? Is the waste gate variable or does it have a secondary emergency waste gate for this reason? The waste gate is vacuum controlled, right?
Heck if I know... what I do know is Toyota built a lot of safety margin into the stock system.  There are a lot of extra sensors for all kinds of things.  If just one of them isn't perfectly happy the car won't boost past 6psi.  I thought it was broken when I first bought it because it was doing just that.  Turned out it was because the ambient temperature was below 40 degrees or something (bought it in Idaho in December).  Once I got to the Tahoe area the outside temp warmed up and the car came alive.

Quote
This is because no MK2 handles like the dream MK1!
Darn tootin'!  The MK1 is definitely dreaming to keep up!

Quote
Did you ever consider swapping bars with the NA car?
I almost did just that at Nationals one year (I had the Turbo shipped, and drove my NA all the way out there).  If I ever start using the car at national level events again, I'm giving serious thought to the idea of trying an even stiffer front bar on the Turbo.  Thing is I don't want it to push too much on the power, 'cause then I won't be able to get on the gas.  The NA doesn't have that problem because A) it doesn't have power, and B) it has an open diff so it'll push anyway.  It can be a tricky thing trying to balance certain cars within the Stock class rule set. 

Quote
Could you post the Summit catalog link to the tip please :)
I can't tell if you're serious...
But this looks close: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GIB-500392/?rtype=10
I'm pretty sure mine has those ID and OD measurements, and it was the shortest one I could find.  The photo on that page looks longer than what I have though.  I could measure mine if you're really interested. :)

But I really think you should get this.  Nothing says performance like a few of these!
http://www.stylintrucks.com/part.aspx?category|category_root|-28=Performance&category|cat_-28|162=Exhaust+Tips&partfamilyid=2125&partid=27231

Quote
Those areas where you lost & regained power is due to ignition trouble. Please explain the different colored lines. Is the engine for the most part 100% stock still?
Each line is a different pull.  We did 3 pulls I think, the first one didn't work right (they said the clutch slipped but it was practically new).  I don't remember how long it had been since I replaced ignition parts but with this car (and this car only) I replace plugs, cap, rotor, and wires every year.  Once they get 18 months old the car won't reach maximum stock boost.  It's crazy.

The dyno shop was supposed to hook up a boost sensor so I could get a readout of that, too, but it didn't work for some reason.  I wanted to know how accurate (or not!) my Autometer boost gauge is.  It shows 1psi with the engine off...  and shows 16hg/in of vacuum at idle when most stock 3SGTEs run closer to 20in/hg (or whatever the unit of measurement is).

Quote
HEADLIGHT WENT POSTAL!!!! LOL :lol:
It really is a sight to behold. :)

Quote
Man that is a great tire combo you've got. It looks really great in that action shot

The wide rubber is awesome.  Only problem is it's too much stagger for the spring rates I'm stuck with.  The joys of Stock class tuning.  Step 1: stuff as much tire as possible under the car.  Step 2: do crazy stuff with shocks or alignment to get the car balanced.

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I've just realized I don't think I've ever inspected the air filter on this car...
Have you done this yet?

Yeah I did a while back. Air filter clean now.

Quote
That's awesome man! Who was driving? :P

I don't know, some skinny dude I heard. :)

Quote
Honestly just sell the car to me so you won't have to worry about it anymore!

Yeah I think I'll get a 458 Italia to replace it.  So you'll buy my car for $300k then yeah?

Quote
In other news, I really need to find a better gear oil for this transmission. Redline MT90 isn't working so well for it. I've used that in my other MR2s with great results. Either my Turbo's transaxle is screwed up, or it needs a different viscosity.
Hmmmmm interesting. What is the status with this?

Nothing yet.  As I recall Toyota specifies different gear oil standards for this car depending on which documentation you look at, so it's confusing.  I think it's either GL-4 or GL-5.  75w-90 weight I believe.  I think a lot of the synthetic MTF lubricants have something in them that isn't kind to the (brass?) synchros we have in oldish Toyotas.  Have to do more research on that.  I've been thinking about checking out Royal Purple stuff, as it's available locally and supposedly pretty good. ?
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: Sirdeuce on August 19, 2010, 12:15:49 AM
For what it's worth. I've used Royal Purple in my MR2, Speed3, 4x4 truck. I did notice an increase in mileage, but only on the highway. Close to 1 1/2 mpg. I tore the MR2's engine down for an 'oh what the hell rebuild' and it was pretty clean inside. That engine was a JDM Watanabe engine that I put a good hard 50,000 miles on. Carbon buildup was nonexistant on the ringlands and minimal in the chambers.
 The interior of the block was pretty clean too. On the truck I noticed a 5-10 degree temp drop on those long uphill drives, like the 4 lane that goes up to shaver. I like Royal Purple! Can't wait to see the inside of the MZR engine. Did the conversion at 15,000+/- miles. My son uses it in his engine and gearboxes, but I can't speak for him.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 19, 2010, 01:34:23 PM
What does the car weigh?

In race trim with the 5lb exhaust, lightweight wheels (8lb front, 9lb rear), and the fuel light on, it weighs 2,755lbs without driver.  My NA is 2,530lbs with the same wheels/exhaust/fuel on the same scale. 

Quote
Does the IC fan push or pull through it?

It must pull air through.  The IC is mounted vertically just inside of the passenger side vent, and the fan is mounted on the engine side of the IC.

Quote
s the tension controlled by an adjustable pulley or by rotating the alternator? The later is harder to perform minute adjustments.

Looks like the alternator rotates to tension the belt.  The good part is there's a bolt for rotating the alternator in a controlled way, rather than loosening the top bolt and having to hold the alternator in place to guess at a new position.

Quote
So is there an exhaust leak? Are you continually replacing exhaust o-ring gaskets?

I'm told there is an exhaust leak there yeah. I haven't replaced any gaskets. 

Quote
Your graph shows boost coming in at about 3,200 RPM. Do you have a boost gauge installed? Remember it could be caused by a whole slew of conditions: temperature of the engine, moisture in the air, quality of your fuel, back pressure in your exhaust, plugged cat, cracked turbo, cracked turbo manifold, low engine compression, burnt or sticking exhaust valves, misfire and other ignition issues, etcetera. This is the CT26 Turbo, yes? Is it a ball bearing Turbo? Twin Entry?

I do have a boost gauge on the A-pillar, but like I mentioned before I don't know how accurate it is (it was already on the car - I don't even know where it takes its reading from).  The weather during the dyno day was pretty ideal.  A little bit of humidity in the air but nice 55-65 degree temps overall.   The cats are not plugged, I know this for sure.  The engine is a Toyota factory motor with about 20-25k on it, it should still be really healthy.  My guess is some sensor somewhere or a boost leak near the manifold but who knows.

It's a CT26 twin-entry turbo.  Not ball bearing.  I'd much rather have a CT20b or CT27...

I was going to work on the car this morning but couldn't get to sleep until 4:30am and slept till noon. Too hot now. :\
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 19, 2010, 07:21:02 PM
Spent nearly 4 hours under the car today. Haven't touched the alternator yet. *sigh*

One exhaust bolt was cross-threaded and a big pain to get out.  It'll probably never go back in right.  The flex-pipe that runs under the oil pan, up over the rear suspension subframe, and turns 90 degrees before finally ending with the second cat is impossible to remove. I've tried every angle imaginable, with the back end so high in the air the front air dam is on the ground. Nothing works. Looks like removing the rear sway bar would help, but appearance is that I'd need a tool that may not exist (a wrench that's no more than a couple mm thick).
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 19, 2010, 11:31:24 PM
Anyone seen an exhaust stud/nut setup like this?  I haven't.  To remove them I only had to loosen the nut.  I hope re-installing them doesn't require a specialty tool to go over the strange "star pattern" head.  What an oddball way to do it. 

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/127634641/original.jpg)

(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/127634654/original.jpg)

After removing them I'm still not sure what the problem is with the exhaust leak. The two pipes seemed joined together pretty well to me and I don't see any black marks around the flanges.   One of the bolts was really hard to remove though, initially it was OK but it went through a phase of being really difficult - had to break out the big bar and thought I might shear the bolt. 

Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 20, 2010, 02:49:48 PM
Alternator is in! Charging problem solved. It wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be, the hardest part is just getting access to it. Ended up having just enough room to wiggle it out with the exhaust shoved to one side.

I figured out how to add more tension to the belt.  Dummy.  There's a long bolt that connects the top alternator bolt to a bracket.  The more I tightened the long bolt, the more it moved the top bolt until it was in the right spot.

So the speedometer and intercooler fan still don't work. :\ The speedometer is not critical for now but the IC fan needs to work if I'm to autox this weekend. Noticed one of the fan relays in the front fuse block gets really hot after the car's only been on a minute. I'm going to replace it if I can find one but I don't know it that will solve the problem, for two reasons:

1) My NA MR2 has the same relay (same p/n and everything) but doesn't have an intercooler fan, of course.
2) I have no way of knowing whether the fault that caused the relay to go bad is fixed now, or if there is a short or something in the electrical system now that will keep blowing things up.

The 7.5A "Alt sencing" [sic] fuse looks twisted but not broken. Will replace it anyway.

Cars are dumb.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 20, 2010, 05:33:20 PM
The replacement "Fan No.1" relay doesn't get hot but didn't solve the problem either. IC fan still won't turn on. [You can force it on by unplugging the engine bay temp sensor, so it's very easy to check without getting the engine hot].

Looks like my worst fears may have been realized and there's electrical system trouble somewhere. I will probably have to take it to a shop and pay through the nose to fix it. :|
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 21, 2010, 12:18:04 PM
I think (though I really don't know that much) the MK2 MR2 electronics are still pretty simple, especially compared to today's stuff. It doesn't seem much different than my 80s cars in the wiring department, at least.

Little known fact: a 3SGTE will run just fine with a blown ECU fuse. Who knew? Not me. I didn't think to check that one. Replaced it, and now the IC fan works, no more lights on the dash. I forgot to test the speedometer. But since it's electronic, I suspect it works now.

Only thing is, now the AC doesn't work. Hmmmm. Wondered if my alternator install could have something to do with this. I don't know if they're on the same belt. The belt tension was correct yesterday when I installed the alternator, and I don't hear any squealing at all.

Is it normal for some cylindrical relays in fuse blocks to run hot? After fixing the ECU fuse I ran the car for a few minutes this morning. The "Fan No.1" relay I mentioned before was pretty warm (the one next to it wasn't). The EFI relay in the rear fuse block was also hot.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 21, 2010, 12:19:18 PM
I figured out how to add more tension to the belt.  Dummy.  There's a long bolt that connects the top alternator bolt to a bracket.  The more I tightened the long bolt, the more it moved the top bolt until it was in the right spot.
Visual aid:

(http://mr2.com/ARTICLE/GRAPHICS/tbAlt.jpg)

I'm jealous of how much room cartoon guy has to work around the alternator.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: Sirdeuce on August 21, 2010, 08:38:23 PM
On the exhaust studs; The 'star' pattern is know as a male "Torx". Need a torx socket to install and remove. This is a better way remove and install the studs as you don't destroy the threads in the process! Stud removers either stress the threads or chew them up a bit, Vise grips and pliers just destroy the stud altogether. The studs are in fact stock Toyota and available at the parts counter. If not available for the 3SG series engines, look at the various V6's. Remember to chase the threads and use locktight when you reinstall them.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: Sirdeuce on August 21, 2010, 08:39:39 PM
Oh yeah, sorry I didn't get the relay to Mike Some things in the stars prevented the two of us meeting.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 22, 2010, 01:44:00 PM
No worries.  I'm not sure I want to try a relay that might be a bit different, to be honest.  The car has had this problem for a few years now, it's just getting worse and it's to the point now that I need to manually raise/lower the lights to make sure they end up in the right place (otherwise they'll do a funky dance and stop in random locations since one motor is faster than the other).  Fun to watch but probably not good for the motor/linkage.

So on the exhaust studs, if the threads are flattened out are the threads on the exhaust flange messed up too?  It's the pre-cat I'm talking about, which was just replaced in 2007 and wasn't cheap.  Or easy to get to (except for the bottom where the flex pipe connects).

Two of the studs went back in just fine using the nuts to tighten.  The other one, with the messed up threads, stopped partway in and the nut started turning on the stud. 

Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on August 24, 2010, 12:48:52 PM
I ran the car with AC on for a bit today. I don't think the compressor is turning on.  Could be low on refrigerant, or maybe something electronic is not right. 

Checked the compressor inlet/outlet tubes while it was running and they were both the same temp. Sight glass showed nothing.

Seems strange that much freon would leak out in a year if nothing was leaking before. On the other hand if something electronic is not signaling the compressor to kick on, I'd be seeing the same nothingness in the sight glass, no?

Is R12 still readily available?  It was a couple years ago.  I'd rather not convert to R134A due to the expense and less effective cooling.  You know me, I can't take the heat. 

Once I get the AC working and the brakes bled I think I'm done for a while.  Need to find a helping hand with the brakes - I'm not driving it to a shop using the handbrake to stop. :)
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: Sirdeuce on August 24, 2010, 07:32:22 PM
The stud that the nut turned on may have damaged threads. The picture looks as though some material came out with the stud. I gather you didn't chase the threads before reinstalling them. If one or more pulls out later, I have the Heli coil set that fits those studs. Now, I have to ask how accessable the flange is. The more open it is the less time it will take. Just putting the offer on the table.
As for the R-12, you can still get it. Do you own your house? I hope so, you'll need to sell it to get the R-12. R-134 properly converted will get nearly as cold as the R-12. With the proper oriface tube and I believe the pressure needs to increase a bit. The oriface is definately a different size though. The seals in the R-12 system seem to do OK with the conditioner they use in the conversion oil mix. I know our Speed3 blows cold enough to bring the temp down to 60 degrees on a 100+ degree day. It runs the R-134.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BigMike on August 25, 2010, 12:30:08 PM
I haven't had time to read the thread. Also, we currently don't have internet at home, so my time online right now is limited.

If you can, try to keep the R-12. It blows colder. Also, the A/C compressor will NOT engage if the system is low on freon.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BigMike on November 30, 2010, 06:57:51 PM
So how is the car doing Bryan? :wave:
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on December 10, 2010, 10:13:12 PM
Blargh... haven't touched it since I last posted here.  I hate working on cars!   :hammerhead:

I bought some SpeedBleeders so I could do a one man brake fluid flush and then I got confused with the wording in the BGB.  In the brake bleeding section it says something like:  "Bleed master cylinder if it has been removed or has become empty." 

Well, um... define "empty!" 

From page 1:
(http://www.pbase.com/bryanh/image/127589469/original.jpg)

The fluid level was below the MIN line but not completely gone.  Looks like there's a front and rear chamber in the MC reservoir and the front chamber did go empty.  I filled it right after taking that photo. 

If I have to bleed the MC I'll need help from an expert.  I checked and I can't stand by the door and operate the brake and reach my hand to the MC at the same time.  :p 


During the brake bleed I'm going to change the oil as well.  Once the brakes are back to life I'm driving the car straight to the gas station with a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner.  Need to put good fuel in and keep the fuel system happy.    Will need to pump up the tires at the gas station too - got to remember to bring quarters.  One tire will likely not hold air so that one will have to get patched.

After all of that, I need to get the AC fixed.  Hopefully just a re-charge of Freon will do it. 

The car's due for smog/registration next week.  Hopefully with fresh oil and purging the old fuel from the system, it can still pass after sitting for 18 months.  Poor car.   :down:
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on December 10, 2010, 10:15:07 PM
I also want to fix the leak at the ABS actuator.  It's tough to get access in there though and I can't tell where the leak is coming from.  I'm guessing it's more likely a fitting than part of the unit itself but I don't know. 

It's a slow leak, so I can still drive and race the car but it's still annoying.  Stripping paint off the frunk and requiring top-ups every month or so.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BigMike on December 11, 2010, 02:06:16 AM
:yikes: :aaa: :sofa:
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: Sirdeuce on December 11, 2010, 12:05:07 PM
Bryan, just a note on the 'pay' compressors at gas stations. If you are topping your tire pressure off, or filling your radiator at the same station you purchase your fuel. California made a law that the station must provide the air and, or water free of charge. You only have to pay for the resouces if you are there only for the air or water. Just ask the attendant for the compressor to be turned on. most places will have a switch under the counter or provide tokens. I realise you are independently wealthy, but a buck's a buck! Get the air for free, throw the dollar away on a lottery ticket for me!
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BigMike on December 11, 2010, 02:04:39 PM
Wow that is great to know Bill
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: Sirdeuce on December 11, 2010, 04:02:26 PM
So, where's my lottery ticket?
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: kdogae86 on December 13, 2010, 07:57:04 PM
hey bri if you need any help with bleeding or anything let me know. i am pretty decent at doing mechanical stuff and dont live too far away.never really that busy during the evening
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on December 14, 2010, 05:15:09 PM
Hey thanks Kevin.  I should try to do the brake bleed myself but if I run into trouble I'll know who to call.  :yesnod:

I kindof want to get the ABS actuator leak fixed before flushing the brakes, you know, so I don't have to do it again if the leak gets worse.

I checked the pipe fittings which are all tight and dry. As best I could determine by diving head first into the frunk (:haha:) the leak is coming from the bottom of the unit, possibly in the middle or towards the front. Where could the leak be coming from if not from a fitting? The BGB doesn't show me anything useful really. I would imagine something important like an ABS actuator would be very well sealed as a unit, with any leaks most likely coming from the fittings but that doesn't appear to be the case. Unless there's a tiny fitting on the bottom that can't be seen.

I haven't found any photos of the underside of a 93-95 MR2 ABS actuator...

The braking system and ABS function normally (or at least they did last time I drove the car). I'm just tired of wiping up fluid from the frunk floor.  The leak was faster any time I used the ABS, like at an autocross.  Just sitting there or driving around town the leak was slower.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: kdogae86 on December 14, 2010, 06:20:09 PM
is that dot 5 stuff? not supposed to use it in abs cars. stuff can be hard on seals if the seals are used to dot 3,4.clean the unit using brake clean(carefulll of paint) the go out and slam on the brakes real hard than use a mirror to look all around the thing. probably pointing out the obvious here though
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on December 15, 2010, 02:00:30 AM
It's ATE SuperBlue which I think is DOT4.  It's not the synthetic stuff for show cars if that's what you're asking.  It's a budget racing fluid - last I checked it had the highest boiling point per dollar ratio out there.

Actually I should have been more clear since the MK2 is a mystery to this group :sly: .  The ABS actuator has metal plates/covers attached to it on the underside, and the location of the unit means you can't remove the covers without removing the whole unit.  I'm reluctant to do that for fear a new leak from the fittings will crop up or something (not to mention the mess it will make!).  The under-covers are shaped in a way that they control the flow of leaking fluid like an irrigation system.  The source is hiding.

I suppose for now I'll just let the leak be and hope it doesn't get worse. 

Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on December 20, 2010, 03:58:20 PM
Well I found a cheap ABS actuator replacement but it's from a 91T.  Which had different brake rotors, calipers, master cylinder and prop valve (and maybe the booster too?).  Trying to find out if there are any real differences between the ABS actuators for the early and late Turbo brakes.

Turns out my 93T has an ABS actuator from a 91-95 NA and it works really well... so who knows.  I'm so cornfused!  I've known a couple people with 91-92 cars who have had ABS/braking trouble, ice mode kind of stuff, and my car never has so I want to make sure it still performs that way.
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BigMike on December 21, 2010, 01:47:16 AM
You know the last time I removed the ABS actuator from my 1987 MR2 I was able to replace it without damaging any lines and the ABS system is still squeaky clean today
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on February 05, 2012, 06:24:38 PM
Ok so this isn't about my 93T (which runs and drives but still needs a new exhaust and a/c fixed) but I found some pics of my old red '87 NA->SC.  These are from 2010.

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4640482515_fa4bb1cf32_b.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4631370220_1e244a8c59_b.jpg)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4637586649_9967724f9e_b.jpg)

Looks like it had the front bumper replaced (or got some bad scratches), front corner markers are now amber isntead of clear, it's got a Toysport-style front lip (aren't original Toysport lips for 85-86 bumpers only?), front wheels are from the Spyder (mismatched for why??).  It also looks lower than I had it when I sold it. 
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: Sirdeuce on February 06, 2012, 09:16:14 AM
Looks like the rear tires may have been changed for the event. Maybe wider than the typical street tires. Definately not as well maintained as when you had it Bryan. At least it gets to go home on occasion(auto-X).
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BigMike on February 22, 2012, 08:45:35 PM
WOW
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on February 23, 2012, 10:17:59 PM
Small update whynot.

I've had Nerves of Teal since 2005 and it's been awesome. I wouldn't go so far as to call it a beater, but I don't mind much leaving it outside or parking it anywhere.  It's nice to have a carefree car like that.  And it has never given me any grief.

Last Saturday was the first time it failed me.

I had packed it up, ready to head to the bay area for the weekend, went to start it up and got nothing. Absolutely zero.  The battery was deader than a dead thing.  I got a jump from my dad and took off down the street. At the end of the street I put the clutch in to come to a stop and the engine quit.  What!  :willynilly: The battery was still dead of course and I didn't have enough momentum left to take up the clutch to get the engine going.  I pushed it to the curb, walked back home and got my dad's truck for another jump. I didn't trust the car at this point so I drove it back to the house and left it there.  Unpacked it, threw everything in the truck and went out to the mini storage facility to grab the Turbo.

Last year Kevin came over and found the battery drain on the Turbo - a trunk light that never went out. I unplugged the trunk light.  :ThereIFixedIt:  And put another new battery in, as the dead one wouldn't take a charge.  I think the last time I drove it was in December.  So back to last Saturday, I open the storage unit where Turbo hides and go to start it up.  Can you guess what happens next?  Nothing (you guessed right)!    :tantrum:   I was supposed to be at a friend's house by 6:00 and I was already an hour behind schedule now.  I got yet another jump start and let the Turbo run for a while with accessories off while I packed it.  In the end it was fine, it got me to the bay area and the battery held its charge through the weekend.  Good. 

Anyway to make a long story longer I'll be replacing the battery in the teal car and hoping that's the end of it.  The battery that's in there was put into service in 2003.  I suspect the engine quitting had something to do with the car having little/no electrical power and perhaps a combination of the stereo and me applying the brakes caused the ignition or something to drop out for a second.  Apparently these cars can run without the help of the ECU, by the way. 

Still love/hate the Turbo car.  It needs working A/C, the exhaust holes fixed, a better turbocharger (and maybe a better intercooler now that that's legal!) and some clunk-b-gone for the front suspension.  Also possibly a bearing went bad somewhere.  I can hear what sounds like rear end whine when I'm off throttle.  At some point I also want to find out why the shifter is so heavy and the transmission so finicky.  It was a new (not rebuilt!) Toyota transmission maybe 40 or 50k miles ago.  Possible synchro damage from a previous owner I guess, but all gears being a bit reluctant? I'm not so sure.  This shifting difficulty has always been there, since 2006 when I got the car. The gates are still well defined, but it feels more like churning a bucket of mud than hot butter.  The shifter is slow and heavy in its movements.  I've driven a number of MR2s and not felt another one this ponderous.  I think the last time I replaced the transmission fluid was in 2008, so it's been a few years but not many miles (probably 5k at most).  I used Redline (MT90?) which has been excellent in my other MR2s and in the case of the '87, improved shifting significantly.

There are a couple shift linkage bushings I can replace. With some effort.  I would think worn bushings would cause a more sloppy or loose feeling in the shifter than a heavy, slow feeling.

Oh and I took all the stickers off the Turbo car, so now it looks completely stock and boring. :)  Oh and the old Pioneer stereo I installed in like 2008 works perfectly with my iPod, using the standard USB cable.  :applaus: Finally had to ditch CDs now that I travel a lot.

I still want to put a CT20b in it but I think Nissan has found me a new expensive hobby...  :help:
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BigMike on March 06, 2012, 09:11:46 AM
...but I found some pics of my old red '87 NA->SC.  These are from 2010...

Quick Q: What F-Stop did you use? I don't see it in the EXIF data and I wish my camera could go that high!! (I can only do 8.0 I think).
Title: Re: 1993 MR2 Turbo project car.
Post by: BryanH on March 06, 2012, 04:15:57 PM
Those pics were taken by Skaughtto from MR2OC.  He might have been using a 70-200 f/2.8 lens or maybe a 135mm f/2.0 or something.  They do look nice. :)

He's done some great work, including these shots of his AW11:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/skaughtto/4804048812/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/skaughtto/3537460473/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/skaughtto/3716025832/in/set-72157622525266270/