Let me bounce this of the guys. Probably targetted more at Bryan since he has the most track time in an MR2. Stock springs, cut to drop the car just slightly, then move the perches down. I'm thinking cutting the springs just enough to lower the car by 1 inch. Be just enough to up the spring rate slightly. Cut the springperchers off in the lathe and weld them back 1 1/2 " lower than stock, 1" in the rear. Cut the bumpstops to 1" to allow more travel. 2nd scenario, just cut the spring perches and weld them at a height we can agree on. We have a few sets of springs we can play with so we don't have to get nervous about screwing things up. Or maybe the springs fron a later model MR2 will fit? Got any spares Bryan?
I like both ideas a lot (lower the struts and increasing the spring rate)
I hear lowering the MK1 2" or more removes most adjustment from the suspension.
But now with the crash bolts I've got, maybe this doesn't apply anymore?
I have those roll center plates for you to copy too! That'll restore the adjustment deficit of lowering the car too much. The bump steer produced from excessive angles in the rear tie rods and front tie rod ends is another story though. Techno Toy Tuning has a sleeve that can be installed in the front to install the tie rod ends from the bottom of the steering knuckle. Requires a little work to get it done. Have to drill out the taper, install the sleeve, maybe weld it in place and ream it. I think it compensates for up to a 2 1/2" drop. The rear requires an extention of the rod end stud. I believe the toe goes out on a hard compression of the suspension if the car is dropped without addressing the tie rod ends. So much to ply with!
I have no clue here... :) Stock springs are no longer stock when they're cut and have spring perches moved around!
All I know is the car doesn't have a lot of compresssion travel when lowered, and that is why some people run modified shock lengths. But maybe that's where you're going with the spring perch modification. That stuff goes over my head for some reason.
I would very much like to find a shorter shock, but I can't find a dimensional listing. Any clues on that?
Are the AE86 struts the same as AW11?
Not sure, but the front shocks would have to fit the rear of the AW11,
Here are some Monroe part numbers I
looked up (http://www.monroe.com/catalog/ecatalog.asp) that use replaceable strut cartridges:
| Application | P/N |
1987 MR2 | 72880 |
1992 MR2 | 73204 |
1988 Celica | 73238 |
1987 AE86 | 73214 |
1987 FX16 | 73224 |
1983-86 Tercel | 72867 |
1987-90 Tercel | 72876 |
1981-84 Starlet | 72837 |
Heavier Weight Toyota's | |
1979 Corona | 73951 |
1980-82 Corona | 73963 |
1978-80 Cressida | 73963 |
1981-82 Cressida | 73991 |
1983-92 Cressida | 73214 |
1983-86 Camry | 73238 (13.50in depth)
73210 (13.88in) |
1979-81 Supra | 73951 |
1982-86 Supra | 73935 |
Next, check this out:
http://www.monroe.com/catalog/documents/08_MountingLengthSheet.pdfThat is a complete list with sizes. So just cross-reference and see what is going on (I'm too tired to do it right now). Check the lengths on the Camry, Supra, Cressida, etcetera struts and let's see if we can use them
For instance, the MK1 MR2 strut (72880, see page 18) is 14.5" long, 15.75" compressed & 22.125 extended, with 6.375" travel
I understand this doesn't tell us everything, but hell, it's a start at least.........
BigMike
The specs I need are body lengths and diameters. But the compressd and extended lengths are quite helpfull in giving the travel lengths.
havent forgotten bout the stock specks bill.will post tomorrow.have had them sitting at home just forgot to post them.
Cool, just something to kick around.
87-89 alignment specs in tenths of deg
camber -.3 to .8
cross camber -.5 to .5
caster 4.6 to 5.6
cross caster -.5 to .5
toe 0.0 to 0.08
cross toe 0.0 to 0.16
rear camber -1.4 to -.4
cross rear camber unknown but probly in the .5 to -.5 range
rear toe .16 to .24
total toe .32 to .48