car was pushed into garage today.will put on jack stands tomorrow and take wheels off. hopefully get throttle cable installed and gasket for muffler this week.anybody have a small muffler with no cat laying around?
I have my 2.25" Dynomax Super Turbo Stainless muffler on my car up at Bevin's. I'll gladly donate it ;)
Here it is, except mine is an offset inlet and center outlet
(http://www.dynomax.com/images/mufflers/superturbo_lg.jpg)
I have Mikes old MR2 exhaust.
car is on jack stands now. will start gutting the interior and replace cable soon. we should have a team meeting in the garage
Quote from: kdogae86 on April 01, 2010, 07:54:41 PM
will start gutting the interior and replace cable soon.
Go easy on the carpet and insulation, I want to buy it , all of it including the back wall and it's insulation.
Quote from: kdogae86 on April 01, 2010, 07:54:41 PM
we should have a team meeting in the garage
Okay, this is my last weekend of spring break. Can we meet Sat. night or Sunday morning? What do you guys think?
OK, I have a few things to bring. Couple of doors to chop up. Urethane bushings. Stut inserts. Cams and shims, if you want to play with that little piece of hell Kevin. I'll do it if we get he car up here. Otherwise, I can help you at you place. Will need a feeler guage set though. Mike, I can bring the brake rotors for you to make shims if you are up to it. Let me know by noon Saturday so I can laod them early enough. Bryan, if you can bring a set of triangles we can get the rims off the car on th' 'bay. Bevin, haven't forgotten about you, just don't know what ya got to bring but yer sexy self. Are we going to Okie rig a double set of sway bars, or are we going to use these Sway Away pieces I have? I agree with Mike though, the judges will probably pile on the hoopty points for the doubles. Hoopty points? Oh yeah, let's cut off the trunk! Anyone think of any thing else I might have, noon Saturday please.
Please bring the rotors down, I will take care of them. I'll also need the stock rear rotors off of the car as well.
Kevin, your house, what time?
I'm busy from about 2 to 5pm Saturday, other than that fairly open. Just let me know when.
I'll bring the throttle cable, and triangle wheels if the car won't be street driven for now (two of the race tires are corded, the other two are low enough not to be street legal anymore). We should clean up the crapbling wheels before taking pictures for eBay. I think I'm out of wheel cleaner.
Also will need an address. :)
Tires and wheels are just to make the car mobile. won't be street legal any way. So tread isn't a factor at this point. now we just need a time. I.m open.
I don't remember his actual address, so I zoomed all the way in to his house.
Clicky: Kevin's house on Google Maps (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=2890+Adler+Ave,+Fresno,+CA&sll=36.799834,-119.725002&sspn=0.000696,0.00108&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=2890+Adler+Ave,+Clovis,+Fresno,+California+93612&ll=36.799821,-119.72526&spn=0.000696,0.00108&t=h&z=20)
I just guessed an approximate address and put the marker there. The map is zoomed into his house with the pool.
OK, I just spoke to Kevin and we are on for 7 PM tonight.
Affirmed.
This might be more trouble than it's worth. Mike needs to smog his 2. Maybe use the engine/trans in this car to do that. It seems to run good. Hopefully, this can get him on his way to an operational MR2.
Of course I would LOVE to swap the engine into my car like last week, but then what? It's gonna be a couple of months before we get the race engine ready, right?
Well, if we did do this, then we could start autocrossing and practicing in my car...
Of course I am down for this :D
Couple of months? Couple of months after I start working. The engine would be to get your car running and smogged. It would be a loaner. At least until the monster is ready for it.
got the wheel off finally but the wheel is destroyed.sorry everybody...but anyway progress should speed up now.gonna pull suspension off this week and take brakes apart to give to mike to modify.now the fun begins since all wheels are off the car.
I won't have time for the engine swap until the last week of May. I would love to get it in to get the car registered!
Is the damage cosmetic, or does it render the wheel unusable? Is the damage covered by the center cap?
the wheel is trashed.need extra room in the wheel to chop the nut.than the nut,wheel,and
lug all fused together so i drill out the stud.i can give you some money to compensate if you want.
Not too worried about the money part. Maybe we can sell them to a honda owner. Still has 3 good holes right? Do I need to bring a hub assembly down? Left side right?
yeah left front hub. just got all 4 struts off just now so we can get crackalakin on the suspension. last strut had a black widow hidin in the top hat. killed him with brake clean before he gots me haha. ive got a bunch of mercedes brake fluid at home already which we use on all the amg cars so it should be good. got some redline gear oil lying around. kinda worried bout the spongy brake hoses. so who has the best newest brake hoses?
Good kill on the black widow
Regarding the brake lines, here is an idea: I have steel braided brake lines I bought from the wrecking yard many moons ago. They are installed on my 2 right now. I can get some new Crown Performance brake lines for my MR2 and donate my old steel braided lines to the LeMons car? They are tarnished and look aged, so it would be easy to say we bought them used on craigslist for $25 or something.
Since eveerything is open might as well flush out the lines. I use Berrymans B-12 chemtool, and follw that up with a blast of brake cleaner. Blow out with compressed air, then tape the open ends. Kevin, do you have a 240V outlet in your garage? I can get my air compressor out of storage and park it at your place while we need it. I'll et that hub to you.
Bill mentioned in the picknpull thread that brake lines are considered safety equipment and therefore do not count towards the $500.
I'll get some quotes to see what new braided lines will cost. We sell very long (about 3-feet) braided lines for lifted Hiluxes, and we retail them for $29 each. So I'm sure our cost is less than $20 per line and they are very long. So maybe some much shorter lines for the MR2 will only be like $15 each.
I'll find out sometime soon.
Mike
Here is info on the Crown Performance brake lines we use.
You can see them on our website at this link: http://www.marlincrawler.com/brake/brake-line/extended-brake-line-kit-hilux
Quote from: Marlin CrawlerFor the past 14 years Crown Performance Brake Lines have been used in the United States Armed Forces including the Navy, Army, Marines, and Air Force. Because of this commitment to quality and performance, Marlin Crawler, Inc. is very proud to be a distributor of Crown Performance Brake Lines -- not to mention they are designed and made right here in the USA!
These brake lines exceed the Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Standard MVSS-106 and increase safety and brake responsiveness due to no appreciable volumetric expansion in the brake line.
These Brake Lines are specifically extended to fit your Live Axle Conversion or lifted applications.
Crown Performance Military-Grade Brake Lines feature a strong one-piece crimp design, UV protection layer, stainless steel braid, protection layer, kevlar braid, and finally a teflon inner core to minimize internal friction.
i gots a 240
See what we can do 'bout that next weekend.
Not sure category this would fall into. I have 1" x 2" industrial velcro strips we can use to mount thing with. AFC, gages, things like that there. This stuff isn't like regular velcro, it is quit strong.
almost have the interior gutted. all that remains is the heater box and carpet. dash is not salvageable cause of age.
didnt break anything that wasnt already broken. clock should be good. instrument switches and ac control head should
be fine. bug bombed garage and spiders seem to be dying. found little dead lizard in pass door pocket.hey mike...
we need a tutorial on how to post pics(bill and i)
Quote from: kdogae86 on April 28, 2010, 12:45:53 PM
almost have the interior gutted. all that remains is the heater box and carpet. dash is not salvageable cause of age.
didnt break anything that wasnt already broken. clock should be good. instrument switches and ac control head should
be fine. bug bombed garage and spiders seem to be dying. found little dead lizard in pass door pocket.hey mike...
we need a tutorial on how to post pics(bill and i)
Wow, that is really awesome. I need to come over and check out the progress.
As for posting pictures, you can either (1) upload pics from your computer to the forum or you can (2) link to pics you've already uploaded to the web.
(1) Upload pics to the forum. To do this you must use the "Reply" option and not the "Quick Reply". Click Reply and load the reply page (the page containing the smileys and such). Below the text field, click on "Additional Options..." and then use the "Browse..." button to locate and attach images to your post. Please note that the file size is limited to 120 KB per file. Typically files that are around 0.6 Megapixels or smaller will make the grade. The easiest way to resize images that are very large is to use the Microsoft Image Resizer PowerToy (http://download.microsoft.com/download/whistler/Install/2/WXP/EN-US/ImageResizerPowertoySetup.exe). It is an extremely easy to use picture resizer that integrates into your Windows shell. Once installed, you simply right-click on an image(s) and select "Resize Pictures" like this:
(http://www.webascender.com/Portals/0/Newsletter/februaryimages/news-resizer%5B1%5D.jpg)
I usually use the Small 640x480 option which works great on the forum. This program does not replace your original picture (unless you ask it to); it makes a new resized copy. Then you simply take this copy and upload it to the forum using the "Browse..." button. Currently, you may upload up to 8 pictures per post which will appear at the bottom of your post.
(2) Use a site such as imageshack.us (http://imageshack.us) to upload pictures to the web. Then insert those images to your post using the following code structure:
[img]http://link.to.uploaded.image.file.jpg[/img]The nice thing about this method is that it allows you to insert images
in-line with your post, (http://bigmike.marlincrawler.com/forum/Themes/default/images/post/xx.gif) <-- like that.
Also you can specify the dimensions of the image. For instance,
[img width=80 height=80]http://bigmike.marlincrawler.com/forum/Themes/default/images/post/xx.gif[/img]results in the image being resized to 80-pixels wide and 80-pixels high, which will look like this: (http://bigmike.marlincrawler.com/forum/Themes/default/images/post/xx.gif)
Quote from: BigMike on April 29, 2010, 12:53:30 AM
....insert those images to your post using the following code structure:
[img]http://link.to.uploaded.image.file.jpg[/img]
I forgot to add that this is how I usually attach images to my posts. I have a photobucket.com (http://photobucket.com) account where I upload pics and then link them to my post using the image tags.
[img].....enter......image........URL........location........here.....[/img]Also, many of the pictures I post are not actually mine. I search (http://images.google.com) for them and copy their URL location and then add them to my posts, like this:
(http://cache.jalopnik.com/assets/resources/2008/05/Uber_Gallery_Main_494.jpg)
This way I can keep typing below the image which allows additional responses regarding the image I placed above. I did not upload that image above, I just copied it's URL from some other website and used the img /img tags to insert it into this post.
Just remember that if the image is like 1600x1200 pixels, it will be HUGE on this forum and will be difficult to view. Try to resize images to 800 wide by 600 tall or smaller if possible. Just use the
width= height= option to downsize large images.
Two things to remember:
- If the image is too large and you need to downsize it using the built in width= height= option, then you'll need to retain the images aspect ratio (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspect_ratio) so it doesn't look distorted. For instance, the image I linked to above can be easily distorted by manually over-riding its width and height values, like this:
(http://cache.jalopnik.com/assets/resources/2008/05/Uber_Gallery_Main_494.jpg)
- Some websites don't allow Hot Linking (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hot-link) so even through you enter the proper img code, the image may not appear on the forum. If this happens you'll need to either save the image from the source website and then either attach it to your post or upload to an image hosting website (as described in my previous post), or you'll need to search Google for another copy of the image if possible.
Regards,
BigMike
The hills are alive with the sound of horsepower.
Give us a guesstimate on the weight of the pieces that won't be going back in. Do you think it will offset the safety equipment?
When do you guys think we should worry about the doors? I think for convenience sake, we should wait to pull the doors and skin them until we are ready for cage work. Because the door skins will be integrated with the roll cage side bars.
But it would be interesting to know how heavy a fully dressed door is 8)
We should wait 'till the car is done mechanically before we do the door skins. Means the door crossbars will wait too. Think about it, who wants to have to work on an MR2 without being able to open the door. Feet through the T-top.
My thoughts exactly
also havent pulled the heater box out yet. gonna pull carpeting and check on pulling the heater box out tonight.anyone
wanna come over and share in the fun? would also like to install replacement left front hub and throttle cable. alot easier to
install cable with no dash to fight. could pull the springs out of the struts if i can find away to hold the cartridge.
we could still remove doors and cut innards out to be ready to for install
Wife is ill tonight. Otherwise I'd be down there. As for the doors, we could definately cut them. Cut from a few inches from the top all the way to the bottom. The metal on top is for mounting to the cross brace in the roll cage. Try to keep from damaging the regulators. Keep them for salvage sales, mirrors and power lock solenoids too. How much fuel is in the tank?
Sorry I couldn't make it. Just two more weeks and my semester is over. I've gotten this far while ignoring hobbies, I can make it another 2.
Mike
On another note, do you guys have the receipt from the wrecking yard for the throttle cable? I know we don't have to show that we bought it, but if we are under $500 then it would be cool to show more evidence of purchases to prove that we did our due diligence in keeping tracking of our budget. So just keep it just in case we need it later.
Ill have to look for it. hope i didnt through it away. pulled the heater box out last night so now we are all the way to the front. Now we are into a mass of wiring to go through. its cool to see it sort of coming together. i have no idea of the weight that was pulled out. the heater
box was pretty heavy. but the car will be drivable soon if we put the suspension back together
What throttle cable? We didn't buy no stinking throttle cable!
KDog, I have to go to the shop tonight to work on my truck a bit. After I'm done I'll swing by. The Super Lucky Cats are playing tonight @ 10p @ Sequoia Brewing North and Misato & I will be there. What are you and Vern doing tonight?
What about the rest of the team??? Alright, we see how it is. Hmmph.(turning away)
its ok sirdeuce he didnt show up anyway. people can come over and work on the car whenever they want as long as im home. i encourage people to come over and work. its not just my project for people to drive when its finished. its our car(which bill owns)
Teeth don't shine like pearls to a poor mans eyes brah.
I might be dropping by tonight (Thursday) to drop off the struts I have here. I'll contact you later Kevin, class tonight. It'll be after 8:30 PM. If it's too late, please text me. If you're falling asleep before that, let me know so I don't wake you up again.
I found a page on how to install racing seat belts into a MK1
Clicky: http://mr2.com/TEXT/sabelt.html
(http://mr2.com/TEXT/GRAPHICS/sb2.jpg)
cool
My buddy Isaac is not working now. He has the time to do a little welding for me. I'll try to get the hood and headlight covers soon. What else do we need to get tacked up? Suggestions??
For those who haven't heard, we're starting all over. Mike procurred a decent(better) body for the LeMons event. So, now we need to get together on tihis to expedite the transfer of parts. The new car will save a bit on assembly as it hasn't been wrecked in the front, and the panel need not be tacked in the rear. Chances are the frame might actually be straight. Sorry Kevin, all that wasted time. Hey, let's see what it takes to bob the tail of the Deuce. We can use the old car to see what it takes to vent the radiator over the hood too. Let the games begin........again!
actually i dont think were losing any time by using the red car.
Quote from: Sirdeuce on June 08, 2010, 07:48:17 PM
We can use the old car to see what it takes to vent the radiator over the hood too.
Using the old car as a trial-and-error test platform is a great idea, but what about your finical losses in the purchase of that car Bill? Don't you want to keep it and rebuild it someday maybe?
I bought the car for the engine in the first place. We were initially doing the FX16, the MR2 was for the to go in the powerrplant was for that anyway. I was going to can the body any way. Spare brake parts! Spares all around! spindles, bearings, steering rack and column, blah blah. Let's do it! Don't hurt the wiring harness please.
Wow, nearly a month since we did anything with the poupe'. How are things going witht the poor thing anyway? I'm still pretty hyped on the project! I'm hoping the rest of you still have a spark of interest to do this.
Kevin is out of town until next Monday. I have to do some final work to my MR2 before I am comfortable driving it to S.J. every weekend, so that's what I'm doing until Kevin gets back. Then starting next Monday I will be over at Kevin's working on the Poupe.
Also, regarding July 16, 17, 18, that's not good for me. It turns out there was too much snow and a popular local event (Moonlight Madness) was postponed until that weekend. So I will be up wheeling at Bald.
Mike
Just trying to get a little motivation going. Actually hoping to get this thing rolling. Are we in need of new members? I never hear anything any more. I know I can't complain, I haven't been very active myself. Sorry for that Kevin. I am busy through next Wednsday. Actually have a little cash coming in, and I REALLY need this. After that I'd like to get into the cars electrical. My friend Isaac is ready to do the body mods(welding the hood and door skins) for us. any news on a cage? Let's do it!
Well the reason why I mentioned the engine swap at your place Bill is because I am a bit nervous about asking to do it here (I have not asked yet). I think I just won't ask and we need to be ULTRA careful that NO ONE gets HURT and that we finish it in one day, in and out, which we totally could do with multiple hands on the car
I have no qualms about doing an engine swap here. I just don't have the equipment to do the job comfortably. my garage is small and cluttered. I can cleanit up enough to do a clean swap, but we would definately be bumping heads. I think we could get space enough for 2 people, 3rd person would be stepping on those 2 though. The stands I have are just high enough to be a really good nuisance(about 3" too short). I have completed a couple swaps with this equipment, but it really wasn't very easy. Scale 1 - 10, a 7. When I suggested we not work here, I was actually thinking of you guys. I still do my work here. If you feel you want to endure the extra pain, welcome to my hell.
I'll see about doing it at our shop then
Have we figured out how to explain why/how we bought TWO cars now? What is our budget at now?
Are you sure? It could be a lot of fun here. If you want, we could do the big bits at the shop, and finish it here. Just hang the engine in the bay on the righ and left hangers, bolt the rest up here. Since I was planning on doing a complete rewire we could leave the wiring in a box. I'll install it here.
Weighed the light assemblys being removed from the poupe'. Just @12pounds. Not much, but it is a start.
NICE
More weight removed! Interior rugs and padding, 28lbs! Wiring, thus far 18-20lbs. The main harness is still connected. With the headlight assemblies at 12lbs we have a total of @60lbs removed. I can't wait to see what the dash assembly and door trimmings have to offer!
Went up to Bills and did some work stripping down the old LeMons car.
Here is where Kevin and I delivered the old LeMons car two nights ago. Also I am in the process of changing my headlights
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/MR2/IMG_2578Small.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/MR2/IMG_2579Small.jpg)
Here is what the car looked like when I got there:
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/MR2/IMG_2580Small.jpg)
Here is what it looked like after Bill and I had some FUN with it:
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/MR2/IMG_2583Small.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/MR2/IMG_2584Small.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/MR2/IMG_2585Small.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/MR2/IMG_2586Small.jpg)
So what's going on you ask? We are just about ready to extract the 4A-GE from the old car. Bill has a GREAT idea on how to do this at his place: Just cut out the back trunk and pull the engine out in normal fashion with a cherry-picker from the top.
Also, for the new red LeMons car, we will remove the firewall between the engine compartment and the back trunk and install the 4A-GE right in place from the top. Also, with that firewall gone, it will be MUCH easier to service the car during a race, so it's a win-win.
I plan on heading back up to Bill's place next Tuesday at 4:00p. If anyone is interested in joining me, I've got an open seat and the roads are a LOT of fun!! :D :D :D :D
BigMike
Supplies for the MR2. If anybody could, we need a few things to put this thing together. Fiberglass cloth, mat and resin. I have some, but not sure if it is enough. Kitty hair and glass bubble filler, a quart should be sufficient on the kitty hair. the glass bubbles are not necessary, but help with keeping weight down. Gauges, oil pressure, oil temp and water temp. The stock gauges would work, but are really vague, the oil temp is nearly a necessity when running hard for a long period. I know funds are a bit tight for the most of us(all of us?), but some things have to be done to keep a car reliable and together for the long haul.
Thanks all
Where would I get the cloth/mat/resin? Is this for heat shielding or sound insulating?
What is kitty hair? What is glass bubble filler?
I can come up with some used Kragens type cheap-o gauges in working condition I'm sure
Bill, here are some example pics of the rear firewall removed
That REALLY opens it up -- a lot of room for servicing the engine
...and here is an example of the hood + trunk lid which I think is pure bitchen
The fiberglass is for making panels. Gauge panel, panel to redirect airflow under the radiator like we discussed. Blah blah. Kitty hair is a chopped fiberglass/resin mix filler, like bondo, only better. It's stronger, and can be use to reinforce joints. Like the joint in the front spoiler under the radiator. glass bubbles are otherwise known as microbubbles, used to reduce the resin use in fillets and fills. The bubbles also add structure and lighten the filler. Gauges can have their accuracy tested using hot water and thermometer, so cheap Kragen gauges are fine. Might look into some prices and availabilty of dry ice, for removing the tar matting.
Wouldn't removing the rear firewall have a noticeable impact on chassis rigidity given the suspension mounting location?
Strut bars and roll cage should more than recover any losses in chassis rigidity from the removal of such structure. Planning on a full cage, should be able to cut a LOT of metal from the frame.
Ok, I am leaving for Bills house shortly.
I wanted to let everyone know that I am planning on going up to Bill's house a lot to work on the car. I plan to only stay there for about an hour each visit so that I can get home at a decent time and not get burned out from it all.
Ideally, I would like to leave when I get off work at 4pm, but if you get off at 5pm and want to run up the hill together or even carpool then I'll hang back until you get off work. Just let me know ahead of time.
Here is my plan for this week:
Tuesday (today): I am waiting for my friend Kyle who might be interested in helping us out. He has an Evo 9 (I believe) and gets off work at 5pm. I am waiting for his phone call right now.
Wednesday: I have a business meeting from 4p until about 5:30 or so, then I will head up to Bills.
Thursday: I have nothing going on, so this is the best time for me to tow the Red car up to Bill's house. I will get off work at 4pm and will take our 1-TON pickup to Kevins and will load up the Red MR2 by myself and will take it to Bills.
Friday & Weekends: I plan to leave every Friday after work for San Jose to visit my wife. I will return late every Sunday night, so basically Friday - Sunday I cannot work on the project.
So let me know if you want a free ride or want to go on a drive to Bills together.
Thanks
BigMike
Tuesday Aug 17 Report
I left work a bit late, around 5:30, but still got a lot done with the white car. We are now ready to start cutting the car, get the engine out of there, and bring up the red car.
Here are some updated pics. It was fun hanging out with Bill. I'll be back up there tomorrow. I'm gonna move Bill's other MR2 to make room for the red MR2 which I will bring up Thursday.
Could someone check if the VIN number can identify if the car was originally Supercharged? Thanks
Here are Bill's MR2: Silver one is his son's, white one is the same one pictured in the forum banner above. This is where we will build the Race Car, so tomorrow night we need to move some cars around :D
Ok guys,
Wed night I went back up to Bill's house. Big-K road shotgun in my 2 and enjoyed the ride. :D My friends Kyle (88_Pathy) (Evo 9) and Reece (crocodile WRX Turbo) went up there with me which made a fun drive!
We pushed out Bill's white MR2 and his son's Silver MR2 that were both in the back garage. So now the garage is empty and ready for the red LeMons car :D
Unfortunately I left my camera at Kevin's so there are no pics with this update :-\
Also, Bill removed the firewall between the engine compartment and the trunk of the White car. IT LOOKS GREAT!! There is SO MUCH room to get in there, direct access to the entire intake manifold, axles, transaxle, alternator, belt, it's great! He also cut a large area out of the front firewall between the radiator and the trunk, and will modify the hood to make a reverse hood scoop and see how that all works out. We are experimenting with different ideas on the White car, and will take this knowledge to apply to the new Red LeMons car.
Last night (Thurs) I had planned on towing the Red car up to Bills house, but mid-way through the work day I was invited to a special dinner with some vendors so I had to cancel my LeMons plans for the evening. Sorry about that Kevin!
The next time I will be available to tow the red car up to Bills will be Monday evening. I am gonna need some help with it. Can anyone ride shotgun with me in the tow rig up to Bills Monday evening? I will pay for the gas, or you could follow me in your own car (which would be better to keep the 5-0 off my tail). I get off work at 4p and it will take a good 30 mins to get the trailer and get over to Kevin's to load the car. Kevin lives near Willow and Gettysburg (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Adler+Ave+and+W+Donner+Ave,+Clovis,+CA&sll=36.79996,-119.725131&sspn=0.001407,0.002092&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Adler+Ave+%26+W+Donner+Ave,+Clovis,+Fresno,+California+93612&z=16) and this is where the Red LeMons car is right now.
So if you can help on Monday, please post up!
Thanks
Mike
Need a sheet of peg board to build splitter. The little holes will create a turbulant air layer (boundary layer) and reduce aerodynamic friction losses! And if I'm full of crap, it makes a helluva addition to out story on the buildup of the car. Besides, when porting a cylinder head you don't want a perfectly smooth port. A little roughness on the port wall creates a bounday layer, red...................... Hell, it works in the intake port, why not apply it here.
As for someone riding shotgun or following in their vehicle. I can follow, but it would be advantageous to have extra bodies to push the car around. And if someone else wants to follow, my coming down would be a waste of time and gas. I'll try to contact you tomorrow, see what's up. Might bring a couple of brooms to sweep the dirt out of the barn.
Previous weight savings @ 60-65 lbs. Passenger seat kicks in 32 lbs. Driver seat 35 lbs, but we might be using that one. A light weight bucket seat would cut that in half, but comfort goes out the door without the adjustment the stock seat affords. Sooo.... Weight difference from stock battery @ 10 lbs. Tail light assembly is 8 lbs. The intake ducting we won't be using is 9 lbs. Catalytic converter and corresponding u-bend piping a whopping 13 lbs. Flywheel I have to use is a 9 pounder, stock comes in at a portly 15 lbs. 6 lb saving, but the real advantage comes in the reduction of rotating mass. All that adds up to 143 pounds of useless ballast. I'm sure the roll cage will add about 45 lbs. Still a 100 pound savings! That's worth a tenth of a second in the quarter mile sprint in my Celica when it was pushing 140 horse. I'll get more of this as we get things removed from the car. A/C, door guts and inner sheetmetal, dash and underpinnings, glass, the 20 pounds of dirt and grime on the engine. I think we can get close to the 2000 lb mark! I could stand to loose a few pounds myself. I'd love to see the scale tip at 165!! How much time can you put into this thing next week? If I bring a few things down, can you do a weigh, plasma cut, weigh? Doors, steering column, steering column support.
Anybody have a reliable source for the curb weight on an MR2? I get 2189 to 2360 lbs.
My car weighed in at 2440 1 month ago with under half a tank of gas. And remember this is with the added weight of the GZE.
We can get Chee's car weighed for a GE comparison.
Thanks for the weight info. If you weigh Chee's car, please take note of any HEAVY aftermarket parts, like a speaker box.
On the red 2. Finished gutting the interior today. Lots of useless trash came from that. I have that small GT steering wheel. The smaller wheel will help with the speed of the turns, but will fatigue your arms at a greater rate. I might need some help with the engine removal from the white 2. Anybody have the time?
Basic interior.
oh WOW Bill, you've been busy, now you and Kevin are interior pros ;D
I am in San Jose right now through Monday night. I *might* be able to come up Tues night, not sure yet though because I have to pack for the Round-Up as I am leaving on Wednesday.
So if I can't make it next Tues, then it won't be until like the 13th to come up :o Sorry man, it's just that these three weeks (last weekend, this weekend, next) are packed.
Mike
Found my fish scale. Got a chance to weigh a complete door. My scale goes to 50lbs. The door exceeds that weight, but a guesstimate would be between 55 and 60 lbs. Gutting the doors would net close to 90lbs. With that, our MR2 diet loses the car @190lbs. 200lbs more and we have a pretty light car! Get crazy enough............. What was the weight to power savings??? 100lbs is equl to a horsepower gain of 10??
Battery tray is out! Damn thing had 3 more welds than usual! It's like....they knew!I really don't suggest using a grinder while wearing shorts, especially material that can be melted to your leg!! Started cutting trunk firewall out, but my batteries were dead, decided to call it a day. Got to nurse my wounds.
Trunk firewall is out. This pic shows a strut brace idea. This is a spare from the front of an MR2. A little modification, and it should work fine.
Not a good picture, but picture the wheelwell with holes for venting the air from around the tire. Box the area in with something thin and light to direct the air out the taillight holes.
Wow you are making me really excited to get back up there
In all honestly this week is no good for me :( I am still in San Jose right now, and will be home around 1am tonight. Then tomorrow (Tues) I have school until 6pm and then I have to pick up my truck from Rocky's house and then get it packed to leave for the Rubicon Wednesday morning. I won't be back home until Sunday (Sept 12) night.....
So, you'll be here Monday? When you do come over, bring a load from Kevins. 'Till then, I'll just keep on keepin' on.
Disassembled the front today. Found a few things that need a little 'brute finesse', not all the metal is straight. Might need to go to
Pick-n-Pull for a few items too. First pic is a pile going to the trash bin. Second is a neeto bit of expanded steel we might be able to use.
Third is some moulding I decided to keep for protection from the exposed edges. Sorry the focus is not perfect.
Got the cutting done for the rerouting of the radiator cooling air. First pic is the hole I cut out. See how big a smile it has now!? Second is the hole behind the radiator where the air used to route to the bottom of the car. I'll fill this with spray in insulating foam and reinforce it with a thin layer of fiberglass. The crossmember you see in the front of the hole is where the lip of the front spoiler attaches, and the radiator sits. This piece was bent a bit. I jumped up and down on it for awhile. Seems to have gone back to close to where it was supposed to be. The front spoiler is a mess. I would like to se if we could get one at the wrecker. Third pic, sawzall is not a precise surgical instrument. Fourth is the front bumper from the backside. Lots of steel here. I think we could extend the Poupe's diet to this piece, maybe the rear too. Maybe remove the rear bumper altogether.
Here's the insulating foam. 8 bucks a can. A can goes a long way. Very light weight. A thin layer of fiberglass and the strength goes up quite a bit. Not good for structural reinforcement, but a lightweight, cheap material for r&d and shaping. Can be carved and sanded after it sets up. You'll be seeing a bit of this on the Poupe'.
A few more areas to perform a little 'lipo' on the 2.
Frunk hood, 32 lbs
Trunk hood, 15 lbs
Engine cover, 13 lbs
Front bumper, 30 lbs
Rear bumper, 32 lbs
That totals 122lbs. With some creative work we may be able to lose 40 to 50 lbs here. There's a lot of metal that won't be necessary for the track. The hoods have the support structure that is designed to keep sheetmetal straight for an extended period. Unnecessary here, cut it all out. The front hood can lose a little on the top, I'll use 'glass the diredct the air up and out. Replace the foam in the bumpers with lighter 2 lbcuft foam and cut the steel a bit. Only really need the structure hold the general shape of the bumper. Also planning on replacing a lot of metal and plastic mouldings with foam.
Here's an idea for the rear visor!! Replace the TOYOTA decals with TOYLETA!
Everything looks great Bill! I like the TOYLETA idea! 30-32 pounds per bumper! Dang! I need to remove the metal frame of my rear bumper to help my weight distribution.
I'll be up there tomorrow evening and will bring a pair of jack stands. What else can I carry in my 2?
Jackstands aren't necessary, found mine. Basically need extra hands. I have a welding box up here. You might like it. Stopped at Kevin's today and picked up a load of poupe'. See hoe far we can get from here. See you tomorrow.
Hey, I've got a great idea. How about if we take the car and
And...........................??
Got a little more done on the Poupe'
#1 is my friend Isaac, a welder
#2 is The Stick
#3 is the frunk hood, 1 piece!
#4 is the engine lid and trunk, 1 piece!
Not much done today
Pic 1, brake light installed on top
Pic 2, moved spoiler back
I'm thinking that this would be best for the exhaust. light weight and size being 14" long, 6" diameter. We can even use the tip. Tip and muffler together will allow a straight through exhaust.
Here's a pic of the white car with part of the mod I have in mind to duct the radiator air. Notice how it blocks and routes the air into the frunk area. From the way it looks, it should flow more air through the radiator than the stock route. The foam is really quite strong, but a layer of 'glass would improve that a bit. I will continue into the corners of the 'smile' cutout with the foam on the car we are building for lemons though. Weight gained is in the ounces, probably 6 to 8. I will mold in holes for the radiator hoses. This was just a little R&D.
looks like major progress
I went up to Bills today and had a great time :) Thanks for the Mountain Dew and the Pizza Bill!! :D
Here is what the Team Car looks like:
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3838.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3841.jpg)
The double-hood is SUPER HEAVY. It will be interesting to see how much weight will be removed from it.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3839.jpg)
Wide open engine bay
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3843.jpg)
Removed headlight detail:
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3844.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3846.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3845.jpg)
Interior shot:
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3848.jpg)
SWEET brake light. Can you guess what it is from?
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3856.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3857.jpg)
And here is Bill's foam work to the white donor car
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3850.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3851.jpg)
It looks AWESOME! When he was talking to me about this I had no clue it would turn out this nice. And this is just him messing around with the donor car! And he is right regarding it's strength, check this out:
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3849.jpg)
He actually stood right on the middle of it with 1 shoe and bounced a bit and it was barely moving. It is super light and does a great job for sure. I think I will do this to my car once I duct air through my hood
Bill also is playing around with improving the aerodynamics by filling in areas that have become void from removing parts, such as:
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3854.jpg)
and
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3855.jpg)
And here is our SUPER RACE ENGINE being extracted from the donor car *finally*!
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3858.jpg)
The Two Stooges
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3860.jpg)
I'll tell ya what.... Having that rear engine firewall removed is AMAZING when it comes to working on the car. Actually, we are removing the drive axles right now, from the top! This would normally require crawling under the car but not anymore. Nearly everything is exposed and it's so easy to perform repairs now. This is a HUGE benefit if we experience trouble during the race.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3866.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3861.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3867.jpg)
Bill cut his finger pretty good and was dripping a lot of blood around the engine bay. So now he has spent sweat AND blood :D
Quote from: BigMike on September 22, 2010, 09:49:43 PM
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww46/rakudasama/lemons/IMG_3848.jpg)
The driving position is perfect!
Quote from: BryanH on September 22, 2010, 11:38:30 PMThe driving position is perfect!
Best position to take a dump from!! :D
Also, I forgot to mention that Bill moved the Spoiler back 1 bolt hole on the trunk deck lid :)
Still not sure if we are going to use the rear spoiler or toilet seats. But I know the easiest way to do the mod now.
You didn't believe me, but here's proof! It wasn't a dirt sculpture after all! A real engine was just hiding in there!
Out working on the interior crossbar. Stopped to look at the engine and trans. I have a sneaking suspicion the this trans had a leak at one time. Yep! That's JB Weld! Hmmmm, keep it or replace it for safety sake? Chipped a little off in the second pic to be sure. Yep! That's JB Weld!
Cockpit crossbar; got rid of the crusty rusty piece and replaced it with this black one. Too bad I ran out of paint. I would have liked to blacken the rest of these pieces. The steering column, throttle, brake, and clutch brackets are next. Maybe a flat black on the red frunkwall, after I grind off some of those pieces we aren't going to use. Like the cars mascot? The little rubber plucked chicken in the foreground.
This is what I think of that repair
(http://board.marlincrawler.com/Smileys/marlin/pokinit.gif)
At least it fits our theme!
(http://www.youjustmademylist.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/dog_poop.gif)
This is as cheezy as a 70's porn flick! Wing on the front of the car? Lambodeucergini! Might be a good idea with a differernt wing, but I had just put the wing on the car to move it and voila, stupid idea! Probably the biggest advantage to something like this would be the low pressure zone it would create above the radiator exhaust vent I plan to cut in the frunk hood.
Creates down force for the front
I am worried about the front end becoming too light. We could put 100 pounds of sand in the front trunk maybe.... It is seriously a night-and-day difference when I empty out my front trunk. I carry about 60 lbs up there all the time because it rides and corners way better. If we've got like a 60/40 weight distr, then the Deuce Coupe is gonna be pushing skid marks all around the track :D
We'll get the thing built, and then we'll see where we stand on that. If we have to add ballast then we can place it where it would be most affective. As low as possible, and not ahead of the front axle centerline. Maybe a little to the right of center to offset the driver weight? Oh so many ways to play with a car! As far as balance goes, what IS the F/R balance of the AW11?
I think for an NA it's 56/44 or so.
I bet that wing doesn't create much downforce at all - if it does, it probably creates just as much drag. I believe I read somewhere that its primary function on the back of the MK1 was to reduce drag because of the negative pressure area behind the rear window.
At the speeds we would be doing for a LeMons race, front downforce won't really be an issue. Rear downforce would actually be more helpful to balance the car at higher speed while allowing for a looser suspension setup to be run for low speed turns. When I ran my 87SC at Buttonwillow it was a bit scary around Riverside corner, doing about 100mph. You do not want to get loose there!
Just being silly with carparts Bryan. Most of the concern for this car is in the weight anyway. Infineon has 2 turns I would be concerned with. The first is the right hander at the top of the hill after the start, 3 or 5 I'm not sure. And the long winded left hander in the middle of the track. The rest of the turns aren't much different than driving up to my house.
Quote from: BryanH on September 30, 2010, 11:10:44 AM
balance the car at higher speed while allowing for a looser suspension setup to be run for low speed turns.
That is a very good point. To illustrate this, a 30 MPH autocross suspension setup won't work on an open track averaging 70 MPH.
I know I like to keep my rear stiff, even against what everyone recommends. I run my Illumas at 1 up front (super soft) and 4 in the rear (I used to run 5 in the rear but the car has become much heavier back there so I've found its better at 4). This works great for getting on freeway on ramps, but the risk of snap oversteer is far greater and would be horriable to encounter at speed.
As for the low pressure area behind the rear window, it was the visor put in place to reduce the votecies in that area. I know the rear wing is pretty much useless without the visor. Maybe fashion a vortex generator and install ahead of some of the problem areas. MR2 EVO! Hehe
Not much done today. Was just going to clean and paint the steering column, but the threads for the steering wheel nut were trashed. I decided to use the column that came out of the car originally. The bearings were a little rough so I disassembled it cleaned and repacked the bearings. Cleaned the column body, painted it black and reinstalled the assembly. Much smoother operation, and looks a lot nicer. Decided not to do the pedal brackets though, can't really see them anyway. A little here, a little there, getting done slowly but surely. Next week, I plan to install the brake and clutch master cylinders, divorce the engine from the trans and install the cams. Mike, can you get the doors gutted? Cut out everything, but leave the hinge bosses and the strikers.
I've always heard a stiff rear helps keep the weight on the front tires. And the best shocks for the front would allow a fast compression with a slow rebound to keep the weight on the front.
The trouble with a big rear bar on these cars is it picks up the inside rear tire - no good with an open diff. I did run less front rebound with my 87NA back in the day to keep understeer to a minimum. That was on Koni Yellows that only adjust rebound. Mike's Illuminas change both compression and rebound with the single adjuster. Independent control over both adjustments (and separate hi- and low-speed damping curves) is more ideal but definitely overkill for a LeMons car. Wonder how many penalty laps that would be...
Infineon's Turn 10 (last fast right hander before the final hairpin) is fast with almost no runoff area. Disprespect that corner at your peril. :)
Signed,
Buzzkillington.
Pics of the cleaned and painted pieces.
Shade tree auto parts! Poured the passenger side motor hanger. Just to give an idea of what the rest might be like. The most important are the torque mounts. But if you strengthen the torque mounts the old hangers fail miserably. So it's a good idea to do the hangers too. I poured them wideer than the stock rubber inserts so the urethane won't slide out. My FX16's hangers actually ripped out of the shells and allow the engine to slam around. Hard shifts sound like someone's in the engine bay with a big hammer. I'll get the others done soon ang hang the engine.
After setting up for about 6 hours the urethane shows it's teeth! This stuff is hard, at least twice as hard as the stock rubber! Pretty sure the engine will be heard through the chassis. Defineatly doing this to my car!
What do you think the total cost of the urethane needed for all 4 mounts will be?
I went back up to Bills last night to help him throw the race engine on a stand. Here are some pics:
1. Check out how much has been removed from the column.
2. It is so simple and lightweight, WOW
3. Looks really great. Notice there is no heater. I agree that with full race suits on + adrenalin we will be warm enough. Bill is planning on ducting air to the windshield to prevent fogging.
4. Very open engine compartment. I say we don't need the fan, but it does provide some insurance in case we have to idle for a looooong time
5. Here is a side shot of the relocated spoiler.
6. We'll leave the brake light bucket holes open to vent air out of the engine compartment. Also, a straight exhaust with 1 muffler will be used (no Cat) so the factory air buffer whatever piece (between the camera and the muffler with all the 5 horizontal slots) will be removed to help reduce drag.
7. The engine really did clean up. WOWOW! You can also see the urethane engine mount Bill is speaking of.
8. Check out what Bill found: A lightened Stock flywheel!!! It's probably about 11 or 12 lbs, compared to the stock flywheel which is 16.4 lbs. I brought it down the hill so I can resurface it, I just need to weigh it to be sure. It should do just well and it's free :D Free lightweight flywheel that the judges won't know about!
Hey guys,
I went back up to Bill's today and we got the throttle pedal assembly all finished up. All-in-all it was a lot of hard work but it works great :) Nice work Bill!
(http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad267/MikeJoz/Fails/003.jpg)
Awesome sound system bro.
RCA= Real Cool Audio
I'm cleaning the garage. I dug this thing up thought it might be a good option for the intake. An enclosed air filter that can have a duct feeding it cold air from the outside or maybe even from a high pressure area on the car for ram air. Maybe mount it like a pseudo formula scoop? Look at the third pic for that one. And the tail is Pippin's, silly cat likes to sit and watch. When he can, he gets in the way as much as possible!
In comparison, the car had a K&N filter when we got it. The idea was to cut the filter housing down to jus a ring to hold the filter in place, or use the set-up as-is and duct cold air to it through the port in the pic. Either filte should work nicely though. Could cut a hole in the deck lid and mount the K&N set-up like Mikey's IC fan!?
I like the F1 idea
How can we combine the F1 idea with the air vent of an Out House?
(http://sipbuilding.files.wordpress.com/2006/11/outhouse.jpg?w=425&h=302)
Actually, that is the exhaust vent of the outhouse...
OK, the great camshaft debate!! I am currently in the process of putting in cams! I have WEB Cams 294 grind laying in the head.
Stock early bigport TViS engines ran a duration of 240 degrees with 7.56mm lift
Stock late smallport non TViS engines ran 232 degrees of duration with 7.1mm lift
WEB Cams 294 has a duration of 244 degrees of duration with 8.175mm of lift
I have at my disposal 3 cams of a 264 duration and lifts of 7.9mm, 8.1mm, and 8.35mm. Mike and I believe the WEB Cams will be adequate for our first race, but if anybody has a good reason why we should go beyond that now is the time to raise your voice above the crowd! I'll be installing the cams MONDAY, if you are happy with the 294 grind cams, great, if not, speak now or forever hold your peace!! Here are pics of the WEB Cams and adjustable sprockets planned for use.
What if we ran a 264 / 8.35mm cam on the intake, and a 244 / 8.175mm on the exhaust?
Also, if you don't want to run your adj cam gears, I've got a set of modified stock gears from my redhat engine I am not using at the moment.
These gears came on a head I purchased, not any plans to use them. 20 degree split? That's a quite a bit! Never went that far before. We coould give it a try. I'm sure it would kill a lot of the top end though. I would normally go around 10 degrees difference, just don't have any 250* cams. How about a spli in the lift, 8.35 in, 7.9 ex? Should give the necessary backpressure to increase the low end torque without affecting the top end.
Yeah, too bad ya don't have a slightly shorter cam.
When I think 244 / 8.175mm intake and 240 / 7.56mm exhaust, I say we might as well just run the webbies intake and exhaust.
As soon as we get the replies from the rest of the peanut gallery I'll get them in. But I think the 294's will be fine. It'll be like a 1.7 liter 4age, only 1.6 liter. I think that is close enough as a comparison.
Got all the motor mounts poured. Not very pretty, but should do a good job! I bought a half gallon of the 2 part mix and used half of it. Sorry, no pics tonight, but if I can figure out my wifes camera, she took mine to Vegas as it was easier to carry, I'll get some posted later.
This is turning into a bit of a pain in the ass! Cylinders were getting a bit sticky, the warranty tabs were melted out in the centers and the carbon in the exhaust ports was breaking off and sticking to the valves. Off came the head! This was not a rebuilt engine! Whoever told the guy I bought it from that it was rebuilt was a liar! This engine is an imported ATK engine. I'm thinking of giving it to Mike to put in the hot tank. Might replace the valve seals too, I do have a set. I have a spare head gasket too, so that's not a problem. The cylinders are a bit dry, but in good shape. Pistons have a lot of carbon built up on them. The carbon in the exhaust ports was flaking off and making it's way to the valves and getting between the valve and seat making the process of adjusting the lash impossible. Maybe we can surface the head to up the compression. Well back to the body for now. Probably hang a mock up engine to get started on the wiring. Good thing about working on the engine in my garage though. I can see the floor again!! Enough of this for the day. I'm going to put on my favorite musical and do the dishes.
Ok,
Since you've got the head off I strongly recommend we do a complete valve job. We get good deals from Hyatt Machine Shop in Clovis (where my old man used to work for 8 or 9 yrs). When I blew the headgasket on my 3RZ, I had them do a valve job for me and WOW what a difference it makes having a fresh valve job. The whole engine felt young again, smooth idle, smooth power band, much better top end power. We could easily request to have extra shaved off when they surface it, not a problem at all. Just bring the head down with the cams, valves, everything installed and they'll do the rest. It will cost about $125-$150. I can try to swing this after 2 weeks, but you'll have to wait 2 weeks :( The nice thing about this is that it will give us more power and better efficiency and the judges will be none the wiser.
What is an ATK engine?
Why don't we put in my higher compression pistons from my red hat engine? 8) DUDE!! SERIOUSLY we gotta do this!! 10.3:1 compression + new valve job + shaved head (extra compression), GIGGITY GIGGITY GOO!
I have a set of Wiseco pistons I don't plan to use. We'll need a thicker gasket though, the compression is 11-1. These pistons are also standard, so all we need to do is hone the block, maybe. If the clearances are too close for a forged piston we'll need to hone a few thousandths out. If we go that far, might as well replace bearings too. Balance.
How 'bout we just disassemble the head and lap the seats and put in new valve seals? A lot less money spent! We can replace the rings and maybe the bearings, I have a dingleberry hone to deglaze the cylnders. Probably do the whole thing for the cost of a valve grind. The engine ran pretty good when we got it. As for the compression, we would be able to afford an MLS gasket. Get a gasket with a thickness of .5mm or .6mm. should raise the compression to about 10.5 or so.
Ok. So, no to the valve job. Check.
Run my 10.3:1 pistons?
We can still resurface the cylinder head at work for free. We can take more material out of the head, no problem.
Changing the internal parts might throw the balance off. We could get away with changing the rings and bearings, but the hard parts have different weights. We could check the weight of each piece and compare, and, maybe...........
Ok, pics of the motor mounts. Not pretty, but will fill th brackets for side to side support an definately up and down.
Not pretty? They look amazing!! I wonder if they will believe that we made them ourselves?
We got material for our vortex generators (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vortex_generator)
I'll bring the mix and make a set while they watch.
What;s up with the #8 by the ladder?
Noooo clue
Hey Bill, get off your house phone! I just tried calling ya and it's busy!
Ok, removed all the things I put in the interior and the windshield. Power washed the interior, frunk and engine compaqrtment, which now includes the area formerly known as the trunk. As soon as it dries I'll reassemble the interior and start the wiring. We now need a windshield and the goo to install it. Might need a couple of the seats for the glass to sit on too. To be honest though, the windshield won't be a necessity until just before the race.
Since the engine is torndown farther than expected we can shift our focus elsewhere. Need to get the rest of the suspension out of the white car and install the rest of the urethane bits. Here comes the tricky mods, the struts! It's been discussed, so now we need to make up our minds. Do we perform hocus pocus with the stock rate springs or get a set of aftermarket springs? Either way, Mike will need to give his attention to manufacturing a couple of parts. Tomorrow the tank comes out of the white car, hopefully it's not filled with rust like Mike's tank was earlier this year. Since our engine is down I'll mock up an engine so I can get the engine wiring done. Slowed down a bit, but still moving along!
Bill, I'm really sorry about today. I got home around 6pm, and I've just got too much homework to head up to your place. The plan was to leave work @ 4 and be back home by about this time, but that meeting too up more time than I had to give :down:
Quote from: Sirdeuce on October 19, 2010, 05:09:30 PM
Ok, removed all the things I put in the interior and the windshield. Power washed the interior, frunk and engine compaqrtment, which now includes the area formerly known as the trunk.
WOW! You've been keeping busy I see! I know I've already asked, but I'm wondering how the interior air ducting from the red car fared after you pulled everything out? I need to tear my interior apart and I was hoping to replace most of my ducting with parts from the red car.... if you still have any of them?
Quote from: Sirdeuce on October 19, 2010, 05:09:30 PMWe now need a windshield
How expensive is a sheet of Lexan? :dunno:
(http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/4583/cimg1197.jpg)
(http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/636/img0085d.jpg)
All we need to do is buy some rectangular sheet, trim it to fit, and then mount it up. I'm sure even a flat piece of Lexan can be mounted, it doesn't need to be a custom MR2 piece... A Lexan windshield would be a LOT lighter, and that is weight higher up on the car, so double whammy: Lighter + Lower CG
I won't be able to get up there until Wed of next week (!) I am leaving Friday after work for S.J. and am going to stay there until Tues night. I'm staying extra long because I won't be visiting Misato for 2 straight weekends. So I'll have some time to come up, maybe on an upcoming Saturday evening or Sunday. Regardless, 1 week from today what I'll do is come up after work (Wed next wk) and hang out until pretty late. I'll make sure to get all of my homework finished so I can make the most out of the trip.
Can anyone else head up there this weekend? Bill sure could use our help! :hyper:
Quote from: Sirdeuce on October 19, 2010, 05:26:59 PM
Since the engine is torndown farther than expected we can shift our focus elsewhere. Need to get the rest of the suspension out of the white car and install the rest of the urethane bits. Here comes the tricky mods, the struts! It's been discussed, so now we need to make up our minds. Do we perform hocus pocus with the stock rate springs or get a set of aftermarket springs? Either way, Mike will need to give his attention to manufacturing a couple of parts. Tomorrow the tank comes out of the white car, hopefully it's not filled with rust like Mike's tank was earlier this year. Since our engine is down I'll mock up an engine so I can get the engine wiring done. Slowed down a bit, but still moving along!
Let me know how the tank turns out :crossed: Regarding the suspension, I say let's keep the stock springs but lower the spindle mount on the strut housing. Then run your good struts and we should be set. What do you guys think?
Mike
The ducting from the red car may not work in you car. I'm finding differences in the bolt patterns. I'm going to have to use the defroster ducting from the white car and it doesn't use the same mounting bolts as the red car has. I can't find the duct from the red car, I think I threw it out. Stock springs ok, are you ready to cut the perches on the lathe? I'll get Isaac to weld them back at the lowered height. This weekend we are supposed to go see little Liam! So not good to get together on that. We don't have to get Lexan for anything but the windscreen. every other piece can be the less costly plexiglass. Anybody know what happened to precision plastics?? As for the windsreen, I think the glass would be fine, but if we get the Lexan, we'll need a pattern to cut a good piece. I think the glass would be better for watershed in case of rain anyway.
Note on the pics of the ladder. It was Friday! You can tell that by the shirt I was wearing. Hawaiin shirt Friday!
I started demoing the wiring harness. I have a few basic circuits isolated and cut out. Weather permitting, I'll be working on the windshield wipers, brakelight and radiator fan circuits tomorrow. Should the radiotor have 1 or 2 fans? 2 fans on a single circuit or 2 fans on progressive circuits? Originally 1 fan was for cooling the radiotor in traffic and the second was for the A/C. Technically, if we run fast all the time we shouldn't need a fan at all, but under yellow flag situations we might need a fan for the lower speed. Also if drafting comes into play, the ram air can be interupted or blocked altogether. I say we run 1 fan, but what do the rest of you say about it? The wipers are going to be wired with 2 switches, 1 momentary on for mist and an on switch. Brake lights will be the light on the rear wing and above the rear visor.
Bad news Mike. The sensor in the radiator you brought me is not testing properly. I think it's the wrong one. It's supposed to be a switch that is closed below 180 degrees and opens at about 190 degrees. Not the case here. Contact with an ice cube gets me around 5K ohms. Room temp, 74 degrees sets up at 4.3K ohms. 180 degrees is about 2K ohms and boiling is pushing 1K ohms. Check your S/C manual to see if this is spec for your car. Anyway, I'll need the sensor from the other radiator. Maybe this sensor is spec for a JDM S/C. Who knows?
:worthless:
Chee installed his coil overs and has already agreed to give us his old stock strut + spring assembly. I'll modify his parts and then bring them up to you for welding.
As for windows, we are only gonna run 1, right? Only the windshield / windscreen. Also, we can apply Rain-X to solve any streaking issues. :eyebrow:
As for the fan count, I say one and no more than one, that is plenty. Regarding the sensor, hmmm I am not sure what I gave you. Does it have a blue or white plastic base? Also, I have an adjustable thermostat here that I don't need. We can use that if all else fails.
:goodnight:
Mike
The struts, if you do cut the spring seats off, do make sure to index the seat to the strut before you cut. Make sure the marks are permanent, a sharpie mark is only good 'til you touch it then it's gone.
Glass, Windshield, and maybe the 2 rear side pieces, they didn't weigh much. We'll see.
The color of the sensor is blue. If the circuit is as I have in this idiot book. I believe this radiator is the one you had in your MR2. Your overheating problem may have been a bad sensor, not radiator. In which case we may be able to use this radiator!
:willynilly: Team fecal's high tech shop has been hostily taken over by a very threatening entity!!! I haven't seen the little stinker yet but I know it's there! I can SMELL it! Frickin black and white kitty cat, yeah Pepe LePew wants to be a part of the team. I'll post a pic if I see it.
Started on the wiring. So far just stipping tape and cutting the old harnesses into usable pieces. You can see my assistant in the pic. Good help is so hard to find!
Well, left the car in the rain last night. Seeing the rain puddle Can't have that! So a few strategically place holes should do the trick. Water drained off in seconds. I'll be drilling a few more holes for drainage a little later, water is starting to accumulate on me, and drilling holes to drain it of is much to painful. I'm going inside.
Our mascot was enjoying a dip in the pool :)
I should be coming up Wednesday after work, like 95% chance at this time.
I am going to do some work next weekend for the LeMons car also.
Bill, please rearrange these in order of importance:
Plasma cut the doors
Resurface the flywheel
Clean the TVIS plates
Help you do wiring
Help you install mock engine
Help you remove unneeded parts from the car
Transfer the suspension bushings from the white car to the red car
Help you build engine
Modify strut housings
Finish getting the parts out of the white car
Install fuel tank in red car, remove the rest of the unneeded parts on this step.
Mock engine
Strut mods
Bushings when the struts are done
T-ViS and flywheel go with engine build
Doors are the last priorty
The rest of it is just a continuation from the day before
Most of the stuff I can do myself, just taking parts from the white car i feel safer with another body around. I don't much trust the soil here.
Ok, then I will try to get to your place a couple of times this week and help you out up there. I'll wait on the doors/flywheel/TVIS for now. :thumbs:
See ya when ya get here!
I need verification on this! I have an ECU, part#89661-12320. I've looked at the pins inside the computer, and none are the typical code for a T-ViS engine. The info I can find online is that this ECU retails for about $1100. I would very much like this ECU to be a non T-Vis unit. The pins suggest an AFM operation. AFM no T-Vis? Just what we need for the LeMons car!
Never mind about the T-ViS, found something else that I'm concerned about. How about pins OX1 and OX2? @ O2 sensors? I need to find the specs for this ECU.
Ok, getting a headache now! The 89661-12320 is AFM with T-ViS. I have another, 89661-12580. Definately a non T-ViS, but Having trouble identifying AFM or MAP. MAP usaully has a PIM tab on the board. This has the VC and VS associated with the AFM. The Harness it came with is definately a MAP type. Both have dual O2 sensors. The 1258S0 has a knock sensor (KNK). I have all the sensors for a MAP type setup excepty for the MAP sensor. Possibly need an ignitor for the same. 115 hp or 135 hp? Aw hell, back to the T-ViS AFM ECU. At least I can stop pulling my hair out. At least the AE92 tuning was a little smoother on the power, had a slightly better power curve than the earlier AGE's. Wish I could find the non T-ViS AFM version.
Decided the front defrost would be a good thing to keep. Found 3" bilge fan and duct, like what is used to cool vented disc brakes. Problem, adapt a 5"x 5 1/2" flat flange with a 4"x 2 1/2" hole ( pic #1) to a 3" duct. This is where I start having a bit of fun! I have moldable urethane! A little flat rubber strip, some tape and a little math, voila, a mold for the adapter tube! (pics 2-3, the inner sleeve is the only one I have pictured, sorry.) I made the 3" tube and then molded it into the flat rubber plate, sorry, no pics on this. The flat plate didn't properly adhere to the tube, so I made the urethane mix into a putty consistancy and built up a fillet around the tube. See it in the finished product, no i'tain't perty. (pic 4). Will use silicone to glu it to the plastic duct, should look something like this. (pic 5 and 6) Mount fan to pull warm air from behind the radiator. That was fun, back to the wiring, sigh.............
I talked to Kevin's window guy today. Looks like around $150 for a new windshield. A bit more than I would like to put into it, but I prefer the glass for the windshield. Glass is heavier, but it resists scratches better, and glass doesn't craze or discolor. Glass can handle a wiper better too. I think glass will be better in the long run, especially if we do more than 1 race. I removed the old glass and about 99 1/2% of the old goo that held it in place. Don't think the price will increase with any difficulties on the installers part.
Regarding the ECU, what if we ran the MAP system with a gutted TVIS style intake manifold and include a gutted AFM since I'm sure the judges know the MR2 came with a AFM? Will my GZE Map sensor work?
Regarding the ducting, did you do this work for the defroster or for brake cooling? I'm confused
Regarding the windshield, I'M TELLING YA, LET'S GET A LIGHTWEIGHT PLEXI GLASS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Windshield can't be plexiglass. If we go lightweight plastic it HAS to be polycaronate resin! Lexan! Rules won't allow plexiglass for a winshield. Can use plexiglass everywhere BUT the windshield. Either way on the plastics, if someone goes offroading in front of you and sprays dirt, using the wipers will scratch the hell out of the plastic. Drive into the sun with a scratched window can reduce visibility. Reduced visibility can slow a person down and even make driving in a pack sketchy. I do like the idea of a weight savings, but prefer seeing where I'm going. That's my argument for glass.
The duct is for the defogger. First race is in March, in the moist, cool hills of northern Cali. Good possibility of window fogging. Any thing spent on this can be argued for safety sake! Not going towards the cost of the car! I found fans and ducting on e-bay that can be used for the defog and the brakes. I'm broke as hell, but am looking at 1 fan with about 3' of ducting for 30 bucks total with shipping. Nice thing is the whole thing is easily removed. Don't have to run it if we don't need to! Here's a pic of the defogger installed in the car.
As far as running the MAP system with the GZE map sensor, not really sure. We could try though.
as far as that goes, how about the sensor from the 20V head I have?? I do have a vacuum pump and a DVOM! I guess I could check the resistance ramp. I just don't have the proper MAP sensor for the high comp ECU. Can you settle for the JDM AE86 setup? Now is the time to decide this little bit. Once the harness is taped up I don't want to take it apart again.
A little note on weight savings vs. horsepower gain equivalent.
1. Need to know hp rating. I'm going to say we are at 130 horse.
2. Vehicle weight initial and final. Initial is around 2360 lbs, hoping for a final of 2000 lbs.
3. weight differential, 360 lbs
4. Divide initial weight by hp. 2360/130=18.16 lb per hp
5. Divide final weight by hp. 2000/130=15.38 lb per hp
6. Find mean lb per hp. (18.16+15.38)/2=16.765 Mlb per hp
7. Weight differntial by Mlb per hp 360/16.765=21.47 equivalent hp gain.
So the model car with it's weight reduction is eqal to a non lightened car with 21.47 more ponies. 2360 lb car with 151 hp!
This is just playing with numbers, might possibly be WAY wrong. I've heard so many things about so many pounds removed is equal to 1 hp. I can't begin to believe that 8lbs is worth 1hp on every engine/vehicle combination. I mean a car weighing 3000 lbs with 130 hp won't have the same equivalent hp gain as my example car. So I played around with this and hopefully it's right. I hope I got this thing to where it's understandable to whoevere reads it. If anyone knows the real formula or lb/hp values, if there is any, please post so I can get this right. I really do wish the 8 pounds removed is equal to 1 hp was true though. 360/8=45. 45 is definately better than 21.5.
Is a windshield even required??
Did a quick look, didn't say windshield was REQUIRED, but did say winshield must be of the following material, stock glass, true Lexan or circle track mesh. I would take the 'must be made of' as an implication that widshields are required.
Mike showed up tonight! We removed the fuel tank from the white MR2. He helped me get his old high-comp block onto a stand. I'll be getting that block dissambled this weekend to see if we can use the 10.3-1 compression pistons in our LeMons engine. Wiring is slow going, mostly untangling the old harnesses. Slow and steady gets the car done for the race.
Last night I finally was able to get back up to work on the Deuce Poupẻ :thumbs:
First order of business was to remove the gas tank. This had Lemons written ALL OVER IT:
- In the dirt? Check!
- Jack on loose, wet ground? Check!
- Jack handle in two pieces? Check!
- No safety jack stands? Check!
- Car parked on a sloped narrow road? Check!
- Working in the dark without lights? Check!
- A/C part and hammer used as safety rear tire catch? Check!
- Gas tank still full of fuel? Check!
- Having fun building a LeMons Race Car? CCHHEECCCCKKKK!!!!
After we got the tank out Bill and I were discussing what to do regarding the ride height of the Poupẻ.
Should we cut the stock springs? Should we run different stock springs?
We had 2 original ideas of what to do:
1) Bill was thinking to cut the lower spring perch plate and lower it on the strut housing... (YELLOW ARROWS)
2) I was thinking to cut the spindle mount from the strut housing (GREEN ARROWS) and then reposition the strut housing up-or-down as needed to get the new ride height (RED ARROWS), and then reweld the spindle mount back to the strut housing...
:smack: we need a dozer party! hope to get out there and help sometime! :whistle:
...and so the problem with BOTH ideas is that no matter what we do, we will have lower spring perch - to - tire interference!!!! :smack:
First pic is the front suspension clearance issue. Maybe we can lower it half an inch or so but its gonna get close to the tire really quick...
Second pic is the rear suspension. Notice there is much more room, a good 2+ inches. This distance does not change with or without the engine/trans in the car (remember the strut is directly connected to the spindle which is connected to the wheel).
So we can play with the rear struts but not with the front struts...
Quote from: Blane525 on October 30, 2010, 08:18:47 PM
:smack: we need a dozer party! hope to get out there and help sometime! :whistle:
Monday Chee and I are going up to Bills to remove the suspension from the white car and also put a mock engine into the Poupẻ. Can you make it up Monday after work with us???
Ok,
So regarding the front ride height, the idea I have is to cut the front strut mount and raise it whatever height we need. We can also move the strut in-wards a bit and
gain some more camber. What do you guys think? Who cares if it sticks out the top of the hood or whatever :yupyup:
So we'll keep the stock springs, which are rated for a heavier vehicle, and control this imbalance by using high quality KYB shocks and dual or triple sway bars. Comments, Suggestions?
Back in Team Fecal's garage, we've got the Poupẻ. Bill has the interior fully stripped and has done a lot of wiring.
pic 1: What the car looks like currently. The rear end is so light I can easily lift the tires off the ground. The same can be done to the front end but it requires much more effort. The rear is super light without an engine/trans in it!
pic 2: The spoiler 3rd brake light is fully mounted atop the car
pic 3: Bill did a FANTASTIC job with the wiring, concealing it with red electrical tape and routing it through the body. It looks GREAT. Bill has been routing wires through the body whenever possible to prevent us from damaging or tripping on them. Great idea.
pic 4: Here Bill is explaining how he will route all the wires for the dash through the support tube. Everything will be hidden and concealed, out of harms way.
pic 5: Here is the windshield defroster detail Bill was talking about above. It turned out great and just need a blower fan.
pic 6: Detail of the frunk cut-out and radiator fans. We are only going to run the driver's side fan which should be more than enough even if we have to idle around for a long time or are drafting tight behind another car.
pic 7: Bill wired in the fan relay using all 100% stock Toyota parts that the car already had. When I see this work I wish I had the time to really help him out with the wiring. I like doing wiring.
pic 8: What the interior currently looks like
Finally, here is the engine from the white donor car. The white piece on the front is called a Degree Wheel, and Bill has the engine set perfectly at top-dead-center at the moment.
The engine sitting in the blue packer in the background to the lower left is my old "White 1.0 (http://bigmike.marlincrawler.com/white/index.html)" engine block. We moved this block onto another engine stand Bill had and Bill is currently tearing it apart so we can use it as a mock engine.
The 2nd pic is the JDM ECU we may use. We need to double check this, but we believe it has a tap more power, maybe 125 HP, it still uses an Air Flow Meter and TVIS, just like it's American cousin. So the judges will have no clue what's up with that. We also believe it will run better with the bigger cams, higher compression (we plan to run 10.3:1 pistons), and adjustable cam gears. We're hoping to get between 140 to 150 HP. That would ROCK!
So on Monday, Chee and I are going to go up to Bill's and we are going to bolt a transaxle up to this mock engine (bare engine block) and then mount it into the Poupẻ. This will help with the wiring and visualization while everything else is mounted in and around the engine compartment.
That's it for now! Bill is doing a LOT of work and it would be great if we could get more hands up to his place to help out!
BigMike
Quote from: Sirdeuce on October 27, 2010, 09:51:46 AM
...2360 lbs, hoping for a final of 2000 lbs...
So the model car with it's weight reduction is eqal to a non lightened car with 21.47 more ponies. 2360 lb car with 151 hp!
Testing this theory out in my CarTest v4.5 program:
2360 lb & 151 HP: 0-60: 6.4 secs, 1/4 mile: 15.2 @ 91.1 mph
2000 lb & 130 HP: 0-60: 6.4 secs, 1/4 mile: 15.2 @ 90.6 mph
WOW BILL! Pretty close!!
Tore down Mikke's old block today. The pistons are in pretty good shape! The #4 piston is the worst, but still very usable with some minor scratches on the skirting. The piston heads have a coating, so I did a gentle cleanup on them with an old toothbrush and dish soap. Might need to do a bit more cleaning in the ring grooves though. I'll get a little more done there later. So, we have our 10.3-1 pistons! .010" off the head and that would get to 10.5-10.6 to 1. Not sure if that will be necessary, but if the head used needs a little cleanup on the mating surface......... Now to tear down the other block to see if everything else is going to be good for the upgrade. Pics of the pistons. 1, is a side shot. 2, is top angled, you can see where the coating starts on the heads. As for the rods that came out of Mike's old engine. Need to rcondition them and replace the rod bearings. When I loosened the nuts on 2,3,and 4 rods not much effort was needed, rod bolts were stretched. Mike, if you ran that engine much longer the rods would have ventilated the block!
Wiring the dash is a bit of a trip through memory land. Not necessarily memories I want to surface! Damn glad we aren't doing this in ONE color of wire! (shivers running down my spine) First pic, look what I stepped in, jumping jacks too. Pic 2 and 3, guage cluster wiring won't be visible at all! Cluster wire loom in yellow chinese finger trap. Wiring comes out end of steering support directly into a pillar sheet metal. Pic 4, harness hokked up to cluster harness. Only electrical that will be visible here is the fuse/junction block. Radiator fan will get it's juice at this point as well as cluster. Pic 5, Yeah it really does work, not showing on this pic though.
WOW That is really, really awesome Bill. Super professional!!
Regarding the more critical components, like say the fuel pump, do you think it's necessary to run multiple circuits in case one gets damaged by that Dodge Newport who just rammed us? How do they do it in say Nascar I wonder? :headscratch:
I was planning on separate circuits for the EFI, fuel pump, charge, ignition and accessories. That way, if a circuit melts down it doesn't take another with it.
Quote from: Sirdeuce on November 02, 2010, 06:40:26 PM
I was planning on separate circuits for the EFI, fuel pump, charge, ignition and accessories. That way, if a circuit melts down it doesn't take another with it.
Sounds good. Also, I'm sure we'll think of 101 things for preventative measures such as zip tying rubber or some other non-conductive material to the main hot posts of the alternator, starter, and of course the battery. I can't wait until I get more time to help you out. Currently I am at a Dennys working on my Solidwork assignments that are due tomorrow morning @ 7:30a.
Mike
3rd of November, 78 degrees ooutside. Hell with the car, I'm sitting on the deck and watching the mountains grow!
Bill,
Chee was talking to me about running dual throttle bodies on his 2ZZ, and he sent me this picture:
(http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/7218/rmf2ct5.jpg)
So, I was wondering, let's run dual throttle bodies on the Poupẻ!! Run the MAP system and do this:
^^ Whoops, that is a Corolla intake manifold so the black block-off plate would be on the opposite site for our AW11 manifold :thumbs:
I was suggesting that before Mikey! Should be somewhere on this forum. I have the parts, let's do it!
How about this? Think we could fit it in the compact MR2 engine bay? One on each side
(http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/f880a9906fab591a63a75fdfaadd1c95.jpg)
(http://www.fordmods.com/image.php?id=9765&maxw=600)
DUDE!!!!!!!! WOW THAT IS BAD TO THE BONE MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bill, we've got a tig welder here! The uglier it looks the better!! HAHAHA :yupyup:
What about the EFI system? If we keep the air flow meter, then this is worthless. But if we go MAP then this is AWESOME! :beerchug: :beerchug: :burnout:
The first won't fit, ad is a bad idea. Think about it, the air coming in a t both ends will cause soooo many problems with the 2 and 3 ports. I like the 2nd type. It's more direct to the port runners and won't conflick each others flow. The one you have pictured on Chee's thread would be good except for the clearance to the bonnet. Best for a MAP system, but we could do it with an AFM. A little magic with the plumbing and..........
Hey! We have no firewall to the trunk!! Look at #2 and think about putting the TB's on the other side! How about eliminating the plenum altogether and mount the TB's on the lower part of the runners and eliminate the port dividers!
More like this!
This is a sickness.
Quote from: Sirdeuce on November 05, 2010, 02:59:24 PM
More like this!
(http://bigmike.marlincrawler.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35.0;attach=541;image)
I think I just made my pants pregnant!
WE HAVE TO DO THIS!!!!!!
I'm game!
Do they allow this on the race car? I mean its not like we're spending any money one doing this.
You can do pretty much any mods as long as the cost doesn't go over the $500 mark.
Ok,
I say we position the throttle bodies towards the front-top corner of the intake manifold so we can take advantage of some AWESOME ram air intake!!!!!!!!!!!
Let the insanity begin! Sooooo many ways to go!
Quote from: Sirdeuce on November 05, 2010, 08:16:09 PM
Let the insanity begin! Sooooo many ways to go!
Ok, I know this is pretty silly (that may be the point!) but what if instead of spending the time to fabricate some block off plate, how about we just throw another throttle body over the hole? We've got to close that hole anyway.
Then we can have a triple throttle body setup. If the TPS sensor interferes with the #2 TB, then we can flip it 180-degrees or space the #2 TB over
How much is a TB at a wrecking yard on half off day? Like $10 maybe?
Do you think the 2 TB setup would flow better than the 3 TB setup, despite its increased resistance to flow (smaller overall cross sectional area) ? Maybe having a TB in the stock location will disrupt airflow from the other 2.....? It will be harder to build a link system for all 3 TBs to operate in unison...
Oooh! Progressive TB's! The one in the stock mounting location would only be used as a blockoff. It would interfere with the flow from the TB on #'s 1 and 2's ports. Silly idea? YES! But the judges would like it! Like I said before, SICK! Mentally ill! Nuts! How 'bout photshopping one on the opposite end for a total of 4 TB's?
:gap: I bet this would sound really, really awesome! We could say it's our budget poor-mans version of individual throttle bodies ;)
How about setting up dual plenums to separate the primary and secondary runners?
I went to Bill's house late last night (around 10pm) and took some pics of the Dual Throttle Body configuration. I really like the dual TB setup :thumbs:
The nice thing about this is this is something we can do down the road. We discussed the engine for the Poupẻ, and we probably won't get the Race engine built until mid to late Jan (our first race is in March). So there will be certain things we will have ready for the first race and other things we won't have ready until the 2nd race. Multi-throttle body setup should be done with a MAP-based EFI system, which may take us additional resources and time to accomplish. So this idea may or may not get done for the March event, only time will tell.
Here are some pics.
1st pic is Bill explaining how we will have a coupler to connect the throttle shafts together
Placing the throttle bodies straight up or tilted slightly forward may provide for improved air flow, however they will interfere with the hood. However, this may not be the case depending on how we arrange a multi-toilet-seat hood, if we do that.
Also, Bill is thinking about making a multi-plenum or even removing the stock plenum and mounting the throttle bodies down lower. All ideas are up for grabs right now. If you have a great idea, present it and get up to Bill's house and get it built! Put your creativity to work!
Mike
Looks like we go with the AFM ECU, sorry, my sensors won't work with the MAP ECU, not the proper values. We can shoot for a map system later.
Ya you guys know how to get through tek inspection??????? ? ??? ???? :idea: :rofl: :rofl:
Big bottle of Patron! Served by a naked 23 year old model!
No, no, huge box of Baby Ruths!!!!
The baby ruths are for passers by, and they will be displayed in a toilet bowl.
With water!
Unwrapped!
(http://i2.ytimg.com/vi/1PmMFaVzbzc/0.jpg)
I loved that scene! C'mon, take a bite!
:thumbs: I knew that the whole thing was already figured out it was very bad of me to bring it up :doh:
going to attempt installing the mock engine Monday. Then I can start on the engine wiring. Need switches soon.
Ok, got the mock engine in the car.
1st pic, light weight empty trans case(thanks Mike) and block.
2nd pic, in the car
3rd pic, add a head
4th pic, add intake and various other pieces with necessary elictrical bits, I'll hang an alternator later
5th pic, add valve covers, we don't want our engine catching a cold.
Now I can get started on the engine's wiring.
Oh yeah, with the block and case bolted together it's light enough to lift with one hand, probably only 65 lbs os so.
Fun with fiberglass. The container of resin I had was about 10 years old. It had solidified through about 70% of the can. I cut the can open tho get the slug out, just messing around. the core was still semi liquid, so I broke it and collected the 'usable' rresin. The resin was practically a gell, but I used acetone to thin it out. Not really much left to use. I decided to play. I made a brake duct using the plastic piece I had purchased a while back. This fiberglass duct is less than half the weight of the plastic piece I used as a mold. The outlet is 2 1/2". Might be able to cut the turn signal light holes in the bumper a little bigger to fit these, use some of the expanded mesh I have to prevent the FOD from entering the duct and make it's way to the brake assembly.
Quote from: Sirdeuce on November 15, 2010, 12:02:03 PM
Oh yeah, with the block and case bolted together it's light enough to lift with one hand, probably only 65 lbs os so.
How much power does it develop in this configuration?
1 worn out old fart power.
0-60 in yeah right
1/4 mile never in a day
top speed nnggghhh
I now have 2 of the ducts to vent air to the brakes. With a little fitment work these will do quite well. Now to look for the duct to get the ait to the brakes.
holy smokes, thank you for the pics. We will need these to prove we (you) made them
Can we run a 4AGE with an open, no t-stat, cooling system?
Morre fun with fiberglass. I took this fan out of our boat, probably need to replace it anyway. Looking at the fan seems like it wouldn't flow much air, but it does flow quite a bit! Be plenty airflow for the defrost. Made a funnel to route air from the hot side of the radiator. It should be long enough to clear the planned foam airbox after the radiator. Now just need the ducting to route the air to the defrost difuser. Not too concerned about the cost on this little bit as the defrost should fall into the category of safety equipment. So should the brake cooling ducts!
Cut holes in bumper cover for brake ducts this morning. Fitment not quite perfect due to the angles in the bumper. I'll be able to fill these gaps with the urethane foam. I have run out of the resin from the old can, so glass work will stop for now. If anyone wants to get a can of resin and maybe some more glass cloth I can continue with this part of the car. I hate to ask, but I'm still not working.
Probably not able to do anything this weekend as the rain is due. But if any body is into getting wet and working 'till hypothermia kicks in, c'mon up.
This sheet of aluminum was in the barn.It would be perfecdt for the switch panel. Might even make a guage cluster. If anyone has access to a shear it would be helpful. I have access to a brake.
Eh, nope! not going to the barn today!
Hey guys,
I went up to Bill's today for most of the after noon and made a lot of progress on the interior wiring. Bill was too much of a sissy to work in the cold so I was out on my own. I still made a LOT of progress and the car is coming along nicely :)
I'll post some pics soon :thumbs:
You forgot to feed the dogs!
Got a map sensor! All we need is the ignitor!
ECU, I have 4 or 5. Distributor, I have a few. MAP sensor, I have 1. Need an ignitor to complete a MAP set-up. Part # is 89620-22340. Anybody?
DUDE, Bill, SERIOUSLY, once I get on my own feet in about 1 or 2 months from now, I will buy whatever parts we need to run Dual Throttle Bodies with no air flow meter.
Mike
Been looking all over the place for some low cost blue poly foam to make forms for the various things I want to make for the Poupe'. I've not found any place in Fresno that would sell me remnants cheap, they only want to sell whole pieces at a cost between 80 and 120 bucks a sheet. Then, lo and behold! I found these pieces in a pile beside the road! Wonder what other Poupe' parts might be found in the trash? I like working with this stuff! light, easy to form, won't melt under polyester resin! Make easy forms for things like intake scoops, wings, spoilers etc.. Cut it with a regular knife and fine tune with sand paper. Can be cut with a hot wire if available. This foam is weighted at either 2 or 4 lbs per cubic foot.
Nice find :bowdown:
Can't wait to get back up there and do some work! :_order:
Experiencing some fitment difficulties with the motor mounts. Seems the engine is @ 1/2" forward of the norm. Mybe they changed a few things from '87 to '88??
Mike, have you ever had any problems doing the GZ swap? Did you always use the C series trans? I'll look into it a bit more next week. Maybe compare the red 2 with mine.
Never used the E-trans. I've only used C-series my entire life
Basic AFM setup.
Here is the proposed exhaust system. The muffler is just a big glass pack. One shot to show the approxmate outlet location. Take note, the rear bumper is removed. Optional muffler and tip in the system not cut up yet.
How about a Zonda style mid-body mount?
(http://www.carstylingtips.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/dsc04031.jpg)
I thought you said no to that idea!?!
:dunno: :headscratch:
I proposed we do that before, and you opposed the idea. I'm sure we have enough material to do something like that though.
Whatever can blow more shit out the tail pipe is good with me :gap:
Oh man! The storm is a ragin'! The barn has a small stream running through it! The car is safe, but the things on the periferal are getting a bit wet. Can't save them right now though, going to a party. Good for the buildup story though! I'll get some pictures later.
Shovel some of your doggy poo over to the stream and get some pics of the poor stream running under the Poupe
Mike, can you get the struts from the G20 for this weekend?
Sorry Bill, I've been a Ghost. I'll be at the shop this weekend installing my 6spd (I finally got the right axle shafts) so I'll pull up a strut and bring it up (hopefully). No promises but I think I can come up after the 6spd is installed sometime Sunday afternoon
Mike
It's all cool, I've been hiding in the shadows the last week trying not to get my hopes up on anything. Good thing I have my PS3, it's my escape from reality! Better than alcohol or illegal drugs!
I'll show you the mag when you get here with the strut.
Sounds good, I'll keep ya updated
I picked up some corrugated plastic that fell off a truck. Think of it as plastic cardboard. I think we can use it to panel the underside of the car to smoothe it out. If we decide to cut the trunk out it can be a light weight skin. Maybe lighten the trunk/engine cover. Things like that there.
So how much snow you got up there? :worthless:
No snow yet. Ya gotta wait for the camera batts to charge for pics.
Ok, pics of the corrugated plastic.It's 39 1/2" wide and at least 20' long. Should be enough to cover the bottom of the car at least. A few tech screws and fender washers and we can have a smoothe bottom to the car.
Found the hand written receipt for the white car. $200 bucks.
Weather is getting better! Let's get back on this thing. Kinda hoping we lose Bryan. All of us should feel the same way on this one. Kick ass Bry!
Isn't is supposed to rain tomorrow through Friday?
Quote from: Sirdeuce on February 26, 2011, 01:49:10 PM
Ok, pics of the corrugated plastic.It's 39 1/2" wide and at least 20' long. Should be enough to cover the bottom of the car at least. A few tech screws and fender washers and we can have a smoothe bottom to the car.
:o :o
Yeah this week sucks
It's all wet in the barn! Water flowed all the way across the floor this time! Here's a pic of our little fall today, It was a torrent towards the end of the last storm. Probably only 10% of what was coming down before. Would have pics of the stronger flow if I knew how to use this camera.
^^ WOW :o
Where is the pic of the smoking brake caliper you found in the road? Or brake pad?
Had no camera, but I made a U-turn and went the other way! Kinda like knowing a drunk driver is in front of you.
Maybe it was a nice stanley steamer?
I just looked through this entire thread and I'm so depressed that I haven't been able to help you more Bill :down:
I'm leaving tonight for San Jose (I'm taking tomorrow off to spend more time with the wife) and I'll be back very late Sunday night. I will try to come up a few times next week!! :yesnod:
Days are getting longer, better chances of tgeting things done.
Take some time and lay under your 2. look for places that might be drag producing protrusions. Can they be improved by removing them or putting in a sheet of plastic, foam and glass cloth, etc. Look for places we can route air from beneath the car.
I.ve been considering the area just behind the front tires. Cut the fenders to allow the air to flow to the side of the car, and extend the side skirts foward to force the air upwards. Things like that. We can bump heads on it next time we get together.
How about we put in an inverted spoiler under the car? Or whatever it's called, hang on a second...
EDIT: Okay I can't find what I'm thinking about. :smack: When it comes to my mind I'll post it up
How hard and expensive would something like this be? We could just thin sheetmetal?
Tesla Roadster (Lotus Elise-base):
(http://www.velvetron.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/p1000517.JPG)
I have that corrugated plastic sheet. Pay close attention to the control arm anchor points on our cars. Would have to do some contouring.
so whats the plan now? Oh and mike i think the word you were looking for was a splitter?
Hey Kevin, that rim you broke................. Still has 33 pounds of pressure in the tire!
Quote from: Sirdeuce on March 31, 2011, 12:04:48 PM
I have that corrugated plastic sheet. Pay close attention to the control arm anchor points on our cars. Would have to do some contouring.
Sounds doable. I was even thinking of some simple plywood even.
Quote from: kdogae86 on May 11, 2011, 09:31:46 PM
Oh and mike i think the word you were looking for was a splitter?
Ah! That is right, and we even have a thread for this: http://bigmike.marlincrawler.com/forum/index.php?topic=39.0 I just posted more pictures, see reply #4 :thumbs:
The corrugated plastic is lighter than plywood, and it was totally free.
So guys if you haven't heard yet... I'm officially out for the 24 Hours of LeMons. But in for the 24 Hours of LeMans. :greengrin: [That is the plan anyway - and it's not public knowledge yet, so keep it to yourselves for now!]
Long story short I won the 2011 GT Academy and am leaving the country in 2 weeks to become a Nissan factory driver in training. My first international race will be this January in Dubai if all goes according to plan. I spent the last two weeks in Europe, the first week in Silverstone England for the Academy competition, and the second week I was at the 24 Hours of LeMans as a guest of Nissan and the Signatech racing team. So unbelievably awesome. I was this close to the 787B as it started up (for the second time in my life), and was walking on to the grid five feet behind a Pugeot 908 as it was pushed on to the track. Lots more happened but I can only type so much now as I have lots to do.
We should all get together for dinner or something before I have to go live in England. :)
Under the circumstances, I can truly say I'm glad to see you go. If you can, keep us posted on your events and results. Best wishes to you! I'm sure we all want autographed pictures of you on the middle podium spot!
From my son Will, Best of luck as well. You're a great driver and you deserve it!
Thank you Bill. :) I will always remember my roots and my old friends.
You guys up for dinner or something this Sunday evening? I'm busy Saturday and basically Mon-Thurs next week, probably after that too.... I'll text BigMike and Kevin to look at this thread.
I'd love to do somethung like that. Rubbing elbows wth a pro racer! But sorry, have to say no to thius weekend. Spending pop's day with my son on the ocean! Are you going to race regularly? Possibly local (states)?
Tomorrow night, 6pm, IHOP @ Sierra Vista Mall.
Would anyone rather go to Sweet River Bar and Grill? I like their food and atmosphere better and it's right next door to the IHOP
Bill are you in for Wed night at IHOP? If so I will stop by for a bit before heading to dinner/business with my family. Let me know here or have Mike text me or something. :)
I would like to move tonight's meeting to the Sweet River Bar & Grill, right next door to the Sierra Vista IHOP (better atmosphere/food).
I created a thread for tonight's meeting with directions: http://bigmike.marlincrawler.com/forum/index.php?topic=369.0
BigMike
Here are pics from last Monday night
This is our dummy engine & transaxle (empty shells) just to help us visualize how things will look.
Bill has already completed most of the dash, having stripped it all down to only the essentials.
We discussed a lot about how to route the exhaust and what to do with the rear of the car.
As for the last picture, this is our sweet air intake mirror. Bill, I have a question: How/where are we gonna integrate an air filter?
For instance, if we do something like this, what sort of air filter will we use?
(http://bigmike.marlincrawler.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35.0;attach=544;image)
Here is some free material Bill found that we will use to build an aerodynamic flat belly undercarriage
Here is what's left of our original race car :yupyup:
Here is Bill's new billy goat. This little guy is AWESOME!! I love him! ... And here is the Donkey that is overseeing our build
And that's it for now. I am gonna pick the doors up from KDOGs place and start working on them. We need to get an engine built so we can get this thing running.
Bill, what about the engine that ran from the white car? Don't you still have it? Why not just slap that puppy in for now :idea:
First, consider these options...
(http://bigmike.marlincrawler.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35.0;attach=543;image)
(http://bigmike.marlincrawler.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35.0;attach=544;image)
(http://bigmike.marlincrawler.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35.0;attach=545;image)
Then take a look at how the 222D rally car's above the cab air intake. Pretty sweet! :_order:
(http://blog-imgs-24.fc2.com/f/a/n/fanfry/P4170037.jpg)
Hey did you guys (Mike, Bill?) pick up the plethora of MR2 parts from the side of my house yet? Got an email from my parents last week I think saying the stuff was still there. My internet connectivity is very limited for now so I can barely check in once a week. Don't call/text as my phone is still on AT&T and it costs a fortune. Best way to contact me for now is email (bryan64@gmail.com) but even that is sketchy for the moment. Trying to unlock my phone to use a UK sim card but it's not going well....
Anyway, gotta go, just wanted to check if you guys got the parts yet.
Sorry Bryan, not yet. Our schedules haven't been cooperating.
Bill, I'm able to meet you out there either today after work, tomorrow after work, or sometime this weekend (I'll be in town).
Mike
I work 'til 2:30 Saturday if that works.
Later Saturday afternoon is good for me as I have to head up to Oakhurst around 5-6pm and I can meet you out at Bryan's on my way outta town. Can you hang around in town until 4 or 5p?
text tomorrow
Accepting donations for supplies :help: We need piston rings and plywood. And so on.......
I've got $20 :gap:
I got $20 and a handful of change
I'll bring you my $20 and you can get the epoxy resin for the car. How's that sound?
I've got $20, now where do I buy this sacred epoxy resin?
How about this one Bill? Please give me the green light to buy this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/280255931847
EPOXY RESIN MARINE BOAT BUILDING HIGH IMPACT 32 OZ.KT
That'll work. Might need more later, but should go pretty far.
At long last! New modification! Cut the bottom rear sheetmetal. Now, to figure the way to install the corrugated plastic sheet. Hmmm, follow the contour of the suspension brackets? Just go flat across the bottom? There is still a lip about 1/2" wide around the cut out. Good place to install reinforcing for the covering.
I'll post image later, but, I picked up some 3/4 X 3/4 angle at the job site. these pieces were used to keep the bottom of metal door frames from collapsing. Throw away items! Free! They can be used to support the plastic under the rear of the car.
Remember that ladder we found on 180? Well, I started disassembling it and have a piece to use as an example. I just used 2 sided sticky tape to do a temporary mounting to give an idea. After shaping, I'll mount with pop rivets. Voila, free and cheesy canards!
(http://bigmike.marlincrawler.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35.0;attach=807;image)
WOW I like it!
(http://bigmike.marlincrawler.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=35.0;attach=809;image)
AWESOME USAGE!!
Look at the back of the car in the cutout pic above. We can use plywood to mount downward facing "fins" to a few inches lower than the mudflaps. They would be mounted to the outside of the cut out section. The canards are just an example, but with a little shaping and proper mounting they should be more attractive and hopefully (semi) functional.
Oh yeah. I was looking through the barn for material to use on the car and foun some veneer plywood. Could glue it together to make a 1/4" or so thick plywood that might be strong enough for the splitter.
Found this 4" 90 degree elbow, not any idea what it's for, but it might work as an intake port for the car. The filter assy. I have in the pic has a 4" inlet that fits up really well. Mind is swimming with possibilities!
I'm guessing this went from let's do :thumbs: it to never mind :thumbdown:. Is anybody interested in the least?
Me Me Me!
It's a new year! The birds arre frozen, the bears are hiding and the Little Deuce Poupe' is rusting. What plans haveth ye?
Did someone say plans?
Tired of looking at the projects around here. Starting to get some things to put into them.
:eye: :eye:
Mike, If you remember the rear motor mount fitment problem, I found a solution. The front mount from a FWD Corolla will make up the difference. Just gotta wait 'til the wrecking yard doesn't require a snorkel.
To reduce weight a bit further........ Plexiglass to replace the trunk and bonnet?
Snorkel?
YES! We really need to do something about that hood + trunk lid, it is waaaaaay heavy! A clear plexiglass scrap somewhere would look really ghetto cut with a handsaw which would please the judges :idea:
I wish I had a camera!! I just came up with the sickest cheat! How about a set of "helper" springs mounted in the center of the stock springs? Would be like dual valve springs. My Ground Control spring set for the FX16 fit perfectly in the stock set! Could use a set of shock boots to hide them for inspection, then tear them out for the race. We could add a 100lb spring to the front and a 200lb to the rear(for example). And the differing spring rates and charateistics cold possibly have the same affect as dual valve springs, cancelling each other's harmonics. Plus, there are soooo many options available, it staggers the mind. Spring rates, progressive, linear, multi rate, multi spring. All installed with the stock spring. Go to the Eibach spring site to blow your mind with the possibilities.