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Crap... try this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ln0fyvm_F9g

Ruh-roh...   

Well I found a cheap ABS actuator replacement but it's from a 91T.  Which had different brake rotors, calipers, master cylinder and prop valve (and maybe the booster too?).  Trying to find out if there are any real differences between the ABS actuators for the early and late Turbo brakes.

Turns out my 93T has an ABS actuator from a 91-95 NA and it works really well... so who knows.  I'm so cornfused!  I've known a couple people with 91-92 cars who have had ABS/braking trouble, ice mode kind of stuff, and my car never has so I want to make sure it still performs that way.

I'm so glad they banned TC!

Here's the 2010 F1 season in review:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1McIcTlLjg

I thought the car was getting an F20C.  No?  I think it's worth it if you can swing it.  What a motor (and transmission).

To expand on sway bar experiences a bit, on the MK2 in Stock class autox the car gets faster the more front bar you put on it.  One theory is that the stiff front bar controls roll well enough to reduce the dynamic camber loss of the McPherson struts, and thus gives more front grip while also adding stability by planting the rear tires.  On paper it sounds like a recipe for huge push but it works extremely well.  Of course it helps to run zero rear toe (or even a bit of toe out) to get the car to rotate better off throttle. 

In general sway bars actually reduce grip, and are seen as more of a quick fine tuning device in racing where springs and dampers are very well developed.  This specific case is probably an exception.

Stability is good.  It keeps us consistent on track without having to work as hard in the cockpit.  The trick is to have a stable handling car without it being a push pig. :)

The reason I asked if the track was fast was regarding understeer. To comment on Bryan, if we lack the torque to induce oversteer, what if we ran 205s in the front and 195s in the rear? I know, opposite for what you'd expect with a rear-heavy car, but I'm just thinking out loud.

Worked a treat for my stock '87 NA on Konis and race tires at an autox.  With the higher speeds of a track, it's more than likely too much oversteer.  Especially if you guys double up the rear sway bar like we talked about a while back (remember my '87 had no rear bar). 

Speaking of sway bars, I actually liked the softer (stock) set up better on lowering springs and increased negative camber.  I had stiff sway bars on the car for a while and I don't think it was any faster.  The trouble was twofold - one, you had no idea which end of the car would grip and which end would slide when entering a corner.  And two, using the curbs on a track was more difficult because the car was upset more.  The sway bars reduced the independence of the independent suspension in other words.  I had an ST front bar (I forget the size now) and a prototype H&T rear bar (19mm solid -- waaaaay too stiff!).

We'll have to control roll somehow though.  Otherwise we can have tons of static negative camber turn into zero (or positive) camber on the outside wheels when loaded up in a corner.  I know a good budget track solution was ST springs years ago but they probably aren't in a LeMons budget anyhow. 

IIRC it's a 10.8 gallon.  I know I put 10.5 gallons in my '87 once or twice.  I figured out that once the fuel light came on I had at least 2 gallons left - so I never pushed it past 60 miles on the light (mostly ran low on long drives, not so much in town). 

With the SC and race tires I figured out the car will fuel starve at an autocross shortly after the light comes on.  Interestingly, it starved under braking.  As soon as I'd go to pick up the throttle again it'd hesitate for a bit, then accelerate like normal until after the next braking zone.

The more you know...

Plus it's a 5SFE-powered MK2, so you know it will out-handle an AW11, and never break.   

IMO tire/wheel stagger isn't necessary on the AW11 until you start making a lot of power or torque.  A hint of stagger will work fine (10mm) at <150hp but more than that and the car will push too much. 

That aren't a significant difference.  We'll want the extra width not only for grip but for heat dissipation as well.

Then we saw a 2nd gen MR2. Wow only $500 huh? okay

Those guys (Team Fugawi) are from Fresno!  One of the drivers, the redhead guy, is pretty good.  Drives a modified Fox-body Mustang in NASA events.

WOW that is gonna be AWESOME! When does it come out? I'm all over that

I thought it was going to be this spring, but according to IMDB maybe never in this country. ? 

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1424432/releaseinfo

I'll have to find other ways to see it. 

Of course you can just watch the Japanese version. :)

Congrats Mike!  Wish I had the energy and brains to take on something like that. :) 

I thought 13B rebuild kits weren't that expensive... I mean there aren't that many parts to a rotary engine.  Does it include new rotors and housings or something?