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Hey Colston,

How did it go yesterday?

Here are pics of me from March 22 at Thunderhill: http://www.gotbluemilk.com/web150322/58/

My next planned track event will be Lagune Seca, Monday, July 27

So check that out!! I am making MORE BOOST = S/C efficiency has increased and because it's a fact that the intake temps are cooler, DENSER AIR. Both are factors to making MOAR POWER.

Gained about 1-1/4 pound boost in 3rd and about 1 pound boost in 4th. It's nice to see a smaller gain in 4th which proves the temperature is being kept in check.

Speaking of Intake Temps, Yes, I have GM Air Intake Temp Sensors in my possession, a pair of the fast changing type, however they are not installed yet. Of course I should be commenting that THIS will be the REAL test of the water injection and I plan to be data logging air temps within the next month hopefully.

So, alright, I've really became scatter brained over here. Plus as I've been posting allllll day I am just really tired

I'm gonna call it a night. Before I do, here is a Change Log of what's been happening with this new Version 3.x branch:

v3.0 (Mar 11, 2015)
  Changes:
   Added simple ON/OFF @ 8psi code for... WATER INJECTION!

v3.1 (Mar 15, 2015)
  Changes:
   H-U-G-E rewrite for MULTICORE! Now using 6 cog functions
   Implemented Water Injection DUTY CYCLE!
   Cleaned up and optimized entire program
   Moved LCD output to P13, faaaaar better location, cleaner breadboard, now next to servo output
   Renamed servoabsolute to servopercent
   Moved PSI up a line and replaced "MAP:" with "Data:"
   New Systems Monitor for successful initalization: "W" for Water Inj, "M" for Disc Mount, # for Disc Mount Error
  Bug Fixes:
   Fixed decimal bug where PSI & Peak were writing ".0n" as ".n"
   Fixed missing negative sign when -1 < PSI > 0
   Fixed decimal value of 100 from outputting as ".100" to now ".99"

Only two versions so far (as far as you know) as I've still got many more updates to post from March. Version 3.1 was a MASSIVE version because it is my first program with the amazing world of MULTI-CORE COGS, the true specialty of the Propeller! Now I can have independent timers running simultaneously without interfering with one another (imagine the entire system having to pause while it instructs the nozzle to spray for 800 milliseconds; This was absolutely critical for Water Injection to work the way I'm envisioning it).

And also here is the painfully simple water injection duty cycle cog that I've programmed:

Code Select Expand

// ##########[ WATER INJECTION ROUTINE ]##########
void waterinj_cog(void *par)
{
  while(1)
  {
    inj_trigger = (int) psi;
    if ((inj_trigger > 0) && (inj_trigger < 10) && (initial == 0)) {
      high(15);                                    // Turn on injector
      high(26);                                    // Onboard LEDs
      high(27);
      pause(inj_trigger * 100);
      low(15);                                     // Turn off injector
      low(26);
      low(27);
      pause(1000 - (inj_trigger * 100));
    }
    else if ((inj_trigger > 9) && (initial == 0)) {
      high(15);
      high(26);
      high(27);
      pause(20);                                   // Curtesy pause
    }
    else {
      low(15);                                     // Better make sure it's not spray'n!
      low(26);
      low(27);
      pause(125);                                  // Awaiting boost...
    }
  }
}

Duty Cycle Explanation:

The trigger for the water injection is equal to the integer value of the boost. So if the boost is 2.56 PSI, then the int value would be 2.
If the trigger is greater than 0 (means we are boosting), but also less than 10, then do the following:
-- Turn the Water Injector On
-- Pause for Boost Integer Value * 100 milliseconds
-- Turn the Water Injector Off
-- Pause for 1,000 milliseconds minus the Boost Integer Value * 100 milliseconds.
If the trigger is greater than 9, then do the following:
-- Turn the Water Injector On (CONSTANT) until the boost drops below 10 PSI.

That's it! So consider the example above. If we are boosting at 2.56 PSI, then the system will enable the injector/nozzle for 0.2 seconds and then disable it for 0.8 seconds. And repeat forever until the Boost goes above 2.99 PSI or below 2.0 PSI.

Another example is that when we are boosting above 10, let's say 11.70 PSI, then the system will enable the injector and just leave it on (as it's synonymous with enabling the injector for 1 second and disabling it for 0 seconds, or a 100% duty cycle).

This is why I've been calling it a ten-point linear duty cycle. The break down is as follows:
ON 0.1s OFF 0.9s
ON 0.2s OFF 0.8s
ON 0.3s OFF 0.7s
ON 0.4s OFF 0.6s
ON 0.5s OFF 0.5s
ON 0.6s OFF 0.4s
ON 0.7s OFF 0.3s
ON 0.8s OFF 0.2s
ON 0.9s OFF 0.1s
ON CONSTANT

I love this thing. Once I add air temp to the mix I can start fine tuning this based on temperature. Maybe I need more water at a lower PSI level, or maybe I'm using too much water at a lower PSI level. The goal will be to find a curve that keeps the S/C outlet Air Temp as steady or as constant as possible. That would be great for performance and for the conservation of remaining water supply.

Ok! I'm making so many typing mistakes and am just really tired! Gonna call it a day! Good night 4A lovers world wide and until next time, HAPPY BOOST'N!

Regards,
BigMike

[So, how great is the new Water Injection?]

Ok so continuing with March 11, I drove the car home and went out to Jensen Ave for some Water Injection testing.

I am very pleased to report that it works GREAT!! Even with only a single 8 PSI trigger as shown in the v3.0 release notes, it works great. Also, with this new Wide Band O2 sensor, WOW it's so much better now! It is VERY steady and reacts VERY quickly to throttle angle changes. The old sensor was totally junk!! Now I'm so pumped to start learning AFR monitoring!! AFR Datalogging is on the list but it not done yet.

So, how great is the new Water Injection? Let me tell you this: I didn't have my thermal temp gun on me at the time, but from touch alone I could tell that the air ENTERING the IC was COOLER than the air EXITING the IC. Did you get that?? The Intercooler is now an Interheater!

Well, I already experienced this a long time ago which is why when I built Stage 2.5 of my previous SC14-powered engine more than 10 yrs ago, I deleted the IC completely!! See details about this here: http://bigmike.marlincrawler.com/stage2_5/index.html I got rid of the Intercooler all together and boost went up almost 2 PSI. It was really nice and very responsive, but the issue was that.... Once I ran out of water... I had to turn the S/C clutch pulley off less incur SERIOUS engine damage. Well, when I was like 21, that was fun, but now this is my reliable daily driver slash weekend warrior and I am a much more mature builder. I will be keeping both the IC and the Water Injection and the two will compliment each other. The loss in temperature is a small price to pay for the reliability and dependability of having an IC in the first place. It's still beneficial regardless.

How about power? With only pure water (no meth yet) I DEFINITELY can tell a difference, ESPECIALLY in the taller gears. The system becomes more and more beneficial the harder the S/C works, which is precisely when I'm demanding more and more from the engine!

One nice thing once I get RPM and MPH data logging going, is that I should be able to do pulls with the Water Injection switched on and off and compare times. For instance, how much faster is the car from 30 to 50 MPH in 3rd gear? At least then I'll have concrete proof without the expense and inconvenience of a dyno (of course that is the preferred method, I need to get this baby dynoed again!).

Also, another reason why I had Data logging on my mind, was this!! Here is a data log from a 3rd and 4th gear Pull WITH water injection. Compare this to the above where we only saw a peak of 11.17 in 3rd and a peak of 11.85 in 4th:

[March 11, 2015: Finished Water Injection!! (concluded)]

March 11, 2015: Finished Water Injection!! (concluded)

Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd finally! Reflashed EEPROM and drove home!!

My Change Log says it all:

v3.0 (Mar 11, 2015)
  Changes:
   Added simple ON/OFF @ 8psi code for... WATER INJECTION!

With each new feature I've moved up a major version number and my car is now operating under branch 3.x!! 2.x was a very steady branch but only lasted from March 1st until just now (10 day life cycle).

OHHHHHHHHH CRAP. I COMPLETELY FORGOT TO TALK ABOUT DATALOGGING!

I got Datalogging working back on March 1st and that is what Branch 2.x powered!!

Ok I've been posting updates all freak'n day so I'll need to talk about Datalogging another time. Datalogging has been working GREAT! Ok, ....let me show two screen shots that I know I already have prepared, stand by...

Ok check this out-

First here is the full Change Log for Branch 2.x:

v2.0 (Mar 1, 2015)
  Changes:
   FIRST TEST OF DATA LOGGING!!
   Reduced Initial Mode from 30 to 25 iterations
   Increased Boost Mode from 20 to 25 iterations

v2.1 (Mar 2, 2015)
  Changes:
   Added Error handling for mount and debug code for MicroSD write success
   Added 'I' to show when in Initial mode and also 'E' to show if MicroSD mount error
  Bugs:
   Still not reliable. It has only saved to SD a few times so far... Still nothing from an actual drive

v2.2 (Mar 5, 2015)
  Changes:
   Only writing to SD once per so many iterations for stability
   Replaced 'I' with remaining (strlen) countdown to know when it's safe to power down
   Discovered disc mount error handling (erc) is 0 when no error or some INT if error
   Displays error number if mount error
   Discovered I've sometimes been flashing to RAM instead of EEPROM >_<
   Exhaust Throttle Data logging!
   Line break between New Drives

And that's it! Only took two revisions to get a stable solution. That sums up how the Data logging experience started. v2.2 was great, very stable, and it added Exhaust Throttle Data logging (which, I'll be honest, is pointless since it's a function of the same blue line, but I do love me some data ). The change to hold data in memory and only write to the card every so many iterations was the real trick.

Pic 1: This is what my data looks like in Excel! This is a drive from work to home, playing a bit on the freeway and also on Jensen Ave (my proving ground). The blue is MAP pressure readings (data logs automatically to PSI) and the red is Exhaust Throttle Angle percentage. There is so much to discuss here and how the programming works but for now just ignore all the behind the scenes stuff. So far the longest continuous drive that I've done with data logging was about 3.5 hrs that recorded 69,545 data points haha And this only required 781 KB of disk space (I'm using a 32 GB MicroSD Card) hahaha It's reallly awesome and the scalability seems unlimited for what I need it for.

So left axis is Exhaust Throttle Angle Percentage (displayed via red line), and right axis is Manifold Pressure (boost as well as vacuum) in pounds per square inch (via blue line).

Pic 2: Here is a close up of a 2nd through 4th gear full throttle pull. The data is WAY cool but it will be SO MUCH MORE COOL once I get RPM and MPH data logged. I don't have this yet so you kinda have to use your imagination at this point.

The goal of course is to tune AFRs on my own and build my own DIY Grunt Box (as mentioned in reply # 378). I'll need RPM for this and then I can play with all sorts of variables, that is gonna be awesome. Much more to post about that hopefully before July 27th (more on this date later).

Anyway, I know it's difficult to see, but you can see my boost peaking at around 10.8 PSI in 2nd gear, and then peaking at around 11.2 in 3rd gear, and then peaking at around 11.9 in 4th gear. SO AWESOME to see if all laid out like this!

At first I thought it might be belt slip but after a lot more data I'm convinced it's the air becoming hotter and hotter the faster you go, something this WATER INJECTION is going to solve straight away!!

[March 11, 2015: Finished Water Injection!! (continued)]

March 11, 2015: Finished Water Injection!! (continued)

What you thought this day was done?

Got a new Wide Band O2 sensor installed. When depressingly shopping for a second sensor, I found one on Amazon for like eleventy bazillion dollars. Ohh man this sucks: $61 on Amazon, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COBT9A/. Well... I was reading some reviews on there a a few people commented how this is a standard Bosch 17014 sensor! I was like SA-WEEEEEET!! Called up Napa the day before and got one ordered. Came out to be a hair over $30 as I recall. You know, throwing away $30 is never fun, but at least it wasn't double that. Lesson learned.

Final picture shows the new sensor calibrated and passed the systems check. Good lean reading with the engine off, should be ready to go!

[March 11, 2015: Finished Water Injection!! (continued)]

March 11, 2015: Finished Water Injection!! (continued)

The day was not over! Here I am getting the Propeller set-up.

Pic 1 - More wiring!

Pic 2 - All done!!

Pic 3 - Close up of the PCB Relay. This was the only relay I had with me and it was not fitting my breadboard so well. I really wanted to test the system so I laid two wires across it (yellow, red) to strap it down and keep it in place. I have many more relays at home so I'll be changing this real quick like. Also this is only a 2 AMP relay, and while the solenoid is rated at only 1.4 AMPs, I prefer to use a 5 AMP or even a 10 AMP which I know I have at home. The reason is because I plan to cycle this relay A LOT so a more robust design is preferred. And because race car.

Breadboard Explained, clockwise starting with pin P2:
P2: Serial signal for LCD Display.
P15: Switch to activate or deactivate relay.
P12 (single yellow wire at left): This is for my Exhaust Throttle Servo.
Green/red wire coming straight down and behind yellow Servo wire: This is the wire from the Water Injection Solenoid.
White wire coming down from the top: This is the ground wire that the relay uses to Activate the Water Injection Solenoid.
Black/yellow wire at the top-right corner: Incoming signal wire from my GM 2-bar MAP sensor.

The transistor is a TIP120, a 1k ohm relay at P15 to prevent shorting the microcontroller, and the lone diode across the collector and emitter is used to control feedback from the relay.

[This was all done from the pressure reserve of the accumulator.]

Got some media for you people!

Here is footage of the rapid pressure response of the system. This is with a long 10+ foot blue line in order to get the injector in the field of view while I manually cycle the electric solenoid from the cab ... so the response will be even better in actual use. Another thing to note other than the instant pressure is that the pump did not cycle during this entire video! This was all done from the pressure reserve of the accumulator. Now you can see why the accumulator is such a great idea. Otherwise we'd have massive drops in pressure and the pump would be cycling on/off like crazy.

http://www.youtube.com/v/5h0cboBi3JU&hl=en&fs=1

Here is footage of the system powering up. I drained the pressure to show a true system power-up. The first time the switch is flipped the pump primes the accumulator and then resets to a steady-state, with the solenoid awaiting command.
I tried to show the PSI at the accumulator but the camera didn't want to focus. The pressure is set to 60 PSI and has climbed once primed.

http://www.youtube.com/v/DF9D1t_Lv48&hl=en&fs=1

And finally, here is a stress-test of the system, showing continuous nozzle spray to demonstration how the pump cycles.

http://www.youtube.com/v/uysHbZEnEro&hl=en&fs=1

[March 11, 2015: Finished Water Injection!!]

March 11, 2015: Finished Water Injection!!

Back at reply 381 I showed a picture of my injector with a union, a coupler, an adapter, and finally a push-fitting. Later I said I was waiting on parts to come in. The last piece of the puzzle finally came in and that is an 1/8" NTP to 1/4" push-to-fit fitting for my injector (see this link on Amazon).

Pic 1 - Shows the old parts and the new very small 1/8" push-fitting installed. Not the lack of a hexagonal wrench provision. I had to be delicate with it while tightening. High Tack was used.

Pic 2 - Ready to install!!

Pic 3 - She's home!! That bolt hole has been waiting for this exact moment since Feb 7 of last year!! (see reply 304)

Pic 4 - Plumbed up and ready to go! I ran slightly extra length of tubing for flexibility.

UPDATE: I later switched to a 90-degree 1/4" x 1/4" push-fitting (see this link on Amazon), shortening the distance for a cleaner install and better pressure response.

FAQ:

Why did I choose a year ago to install the injector here?
On my previous 4A-GZE, I ran injectors post-intercooler as well as pre-Supercharger. I really prefer the pre-S/C because you can not only keep the S/C rotor temp under control, but I believe it improves efficiency of the S/C as the denser air is more difficult to leak around the rotors.

What about water and worse alcohol stuck in the IC?
I understand the concern, however keep in mind my S/C mounts flat. Compared to a front-engine front-mount IC, I can see the concern as gravity can pull the liquid down trapping it in the IC. For my setup I'm less concerned, and believe me, the S/C gets so hot that this will be vapor here, not a solid stream of liquid.

What about flooding things out?
Because I'm planning to use a programmable duty cycle, things will very much be kept in check.

[March 9, 2015: Water Injection Plumbing!]

March 9, 2015: Water Injection Plumbing!

Next on the list was to get the Water Injection System plumed up.

Pics 1 through 3 - Got the trunk plumed. I didn't get any pics from underneath but here is the basic layout. The tank has a barbed drain. I cannot connect a nylon line nor a push-fitting to this. So I took some Chemical-resistant 1/4" clear PVC tubing that I had leftover from a different project (McMaster Car - p/n 5231K161 - link) and used zip-ties to attach the hose to both the barbed tank output and over the top of a blue nylon high pressure line. Remember this is just the line that feeds the pump, so it only has to operate at the weight of the water. You can see the clear line connecting to a blue line that dives under the trunk to the pump, then another blue line comes up and runs to the inlet to the accumulator.

Water Tank --> Pump --> Accumulator --> Electric Solenoid --> Injector nozzle

UPDATE: The next day I noticed a very slow seepage leak at the clear line to blue line zip-tie connection and switched it to a small Toyota spring-clamp for full pressure around the OD of the clear line. Hasn't leaked since.

Pic 4 through 6 - This is how I mounted the electric solenoid. I used High Tack to glue a cut-off section of rubber hose atop the solenoid and then zip-tied it using one long zip-tie (exactly how I mounted my PCV oil separator).

In the last pic you can see the feed line to the solenoid coming from behind the coolant overflow tank. (Never mind the light blue 5mm line at right, that is for my boost gauge.) I had a hole drilled behind there from yesteryear when I used to mount a smaller overflow tank in the trunk (that was a long time ago ).

Allll mosttttt done!!!

[March 8, 2015: Project "Complete Water Injection" Day 2 (continued)]

March 8, 2015: Project "Complete Water Injection" Day 2 (continued)

Lastly, it was time for some wiring. Here is what I did:

I routed one main power line through a 10 amp fuse, a 10amp mini toggle switch, and back to the water pump. The ground for the pump is a constant ground.
This same power line then runs to the electric solenoid. The ground for this solenoid then runs back up to the cab and to my Propeller microcontroller's breadboard.

And that's it! When the switch is flipped, it powers the water pump. The pump then pressurizes the accumulator and once it's predefined pressure is met, it turns off (still need to get a gauge on there to see what it's doing). Now the system is in a steady-state. All that is remaining is for the Propeller to activate a PCB relay to ground the solenoid and the injector will spray. As the injector is spraying, thanks to the accumulator, the pressure will drop slowly. Once it has dropped enough the pump will cycle on for a few moments and then cycle off. This occurs independently of the injector operation.

Here are some pics. It was some work!

Pic 2 - Decided to draw power from my amp which made for a convenient installation. The amp pwr is fused (a very big fuse) as is the new water injection pwr (10 amp).

Pic 3 - Here is the awesome mini toggle switch. I love these little guys. Been using them on other projects and they are very reliable. They are A/C rated and using simple math we can convert this as follows:
Power = Voltage * Amperage (Thanks to Hooks law!)
125 volts * 10 amps = 1,250 watts (power)

Now convert this over to D/C (assuming 14 volts while the engine is running) and we get...
1,250 watts / 14 volts = 89.3 Amps

So these lil switches pack a serious punch. The pump is rated at 4.5 amps and the solenoid at 1.4 amps. So this is really kids play. Moreover the pump will cycle off, providing relief to the circuit.

Pic 4 - I love it when all my wires come out from storage! Means someone fun is happening!

Pic 5 - Big mess of tools

Pic 6 & 7 - I pulled the entire carpet up and did extensive re-wiring and cleaned everything up! It all came out great!

Pic 8 - The new group of switches!!
White operates my IC Fan
Yellow is the main pwr for the entire Water Injection System
Green is my S/C clutch pulley

The idea will be to flip the Yellow switch forward and just leave it there, all the time. I suppose it could be turned off at night in case some stray water leak forms. But technically, if the system has no leaks, this yellow switch could be turned on and left on (simply enables a steady-state).

So, whatcha guys think about all this so far? I'm getting so close to testing this out I can almost FEEL IT!!

The switches will still need to be mounted to comply with NC Racing's Safety Policy, but now I'm one step closer

[March 8, 2015: Project "Complete Water Injection" Day 2 (continued)]

March 8, 2015: Project "Complete Water Injection" Day 2 (continued)

Got the pump mounted! I am planning to monitor the temps near the exhaust carefully, and if needed I'll build a small heat shield. My plastic R/C Servo has been holding up fine so I don't anticipate that big a deal.

Pics 1 and 2 showing the pump's new home

Pic 3 - The four bolts below the tank are the pump bolts. Also the new Accumulator, mounted!

[March 8, 2015: Project "Complete Water Injection" Day 2]

March 8, 2015: Project "Complete Water Injection" Day 2

Resumed work on the Water Injection 2 days later.

Pic 1 - Working on where to mount the pump...

Pic 2 - This looks like a nice place, but I gotta get rid of the defunct exhaust MAP pressure line first.

Pic 3 through 6 - Got the line removed!

Pic 7 - All back together

[Updated "WHAT HAS TO BE DONE" list: (T-MINUS 16 DAYS)]

And that's it for March 6! Got a lot of critical stuff done! Here is the updated list:

Updated "WHAT HAS TO BE DONE" list: (T-MINUS 16 DAYS)

• Driver's rear wheel bearing
• Machine Brake Rotors
• New brake fluid
• Fix my axle seal leak
• Install new Redline MT90
• Address Clutch Master Cylinder Issue
• Water Injection (IN PROGRESS)
• Mount S/C & IC Fan Switches
• Mount dash mat
• Mount Propeller LCD panel
• Add a switch to my speaker system
• Change engine oil
• Clean air filter
• Wash the car

[March 6, 2015: Did a lot of stuff (continued)]

March 6, 2015: Did a lot of stuff (continued)

This was a good day.

And last but not least...

Installed Warrantied Clutch Master Cylinder

I don't know if I documented it, but my factory clutch master cylinder has been leaking for at least a year. I've just been soaking it up with rags and it's been a huge mess. It's really dumb that I didn't get it changed a looong time ago. One issue I faced is that Toyota discontinued it, and our dealer could only find one on the other side of the country and wanted upwards to $300 for it. I was like WAAAAAAT. So I went with a remanufactured unit from NAPA. Installed it a few months ago, and the dang thing either works or it doesn't work. I killed the engine a few times because the clutch would disengage at a pending green light while I still had the pedal to the floor. It was stupid. So I got it warrantied and replaced. This 2nd one is waaaaaay better. That other one was clearly a defect. Too bad I couldn't get a nice aluminum Made In Japan unit. Oh well.

[March 6, 2015: Did a lot of stuff (continued)]

March 6, 2015: Did a lot of stuff (continued)

This was a good day.

Machined Rotors, New Brake Pads, Flushed Entire Brake System

Got all four rotors machined. I got these rotors back in 2000 or 2001 from a Group Buy on the old MR2 forum (before it split). I don't recall what brand they are.

Thicknesses after machining (suggested minimum is 21mm):
Fronts:
- Driver side: 21.71mm
- Pass side: 21.81mm
Rears:
- Driver's side: 21.58mm
- Pass side: 21.27mm

So they are within spec and good to go. The passenger's side rear is down so much because about a yr ago I left to SJ and noticed I had a grinding brake. I couldn't do much, it was late, I really needed to get home, so I just drove figuring I could take it easy. I did try, Hypermiled as best as I could, but when I got back to Fresno to put on an old stock spare pad that Bill had brought for me, the damage was done: A huge groove in the outer face. I told our machine shop that I don't mind the grove still there so long as the rotor was true, but I guess they just decided to machine it all the way down. I'm happier this way, it's the right way to do the job.

The moment I got out on the road WOW what a difference having true/machined rotors. I've been living with this faint modulation for ever and WOW it's so nice now.

First impression of the Porterfields: I haven't done any racing yet, but the pedal feels softer. They feel mushy. But have a great progressive feel to them. My old pads, which were generic semi-metallic "Performance" lifetime guarantee pads from AutoZone (bought them when I got the rotors and probably still a teenager), had a much smaller range. They were either off, or sort of on or WOAH LET'S STOP. These Porterfields have a very liner transition through the force of the pedal. I have to add more pedal force to get the same stopping feel as before. Granted they will probably feel different once they're up to operating temp, but so far I'm really liking them. I'm thinking that having a wider operating pressure range will help with pedal modulation, easier to control, harder to accidentally lock up a tire.

The old fluid was such a mess. I've been sure to use synthetic fluid over the years, I think it's been a mix or Chevron and Pennzoil. As I was bleeding the system I got so many different opacities coming out and a TON, I mean a TON of debris. Small black dust all washed together with the fluid. Our gravity bleeder was really dirty afterwards.

The bottle was 500 ml and it was just the right amount. In fact I had a lil bit left over and I think I could have done better. While bleeding, one line was already flushed but I couldn't tell and continued bleeding. So I wasted some fresh oil at some point(s) during the process.

Links:

Brake Pads: "Porterfield R4S HP Street and Autocross Brake Pads - Front [R4S]" - $75/axle. I bought two sets because I'm running front calipers in the back. Made in USA!
See http://twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_66&products_id=242 Thank you Twos R Us for helping me car stay in top shape!

Fluid: "Motul RBF600 DOT 4 Brake Fluid 500 ml (1.05 US pint)" - $19. See http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0011E2Y0I/